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| PC World - 2 hours ago (PC World)In the future, Microsoft suggests, you may be playing AI. No, not on the battlefield, but on games that actually use AI to simulate the entire game itself.
As a first step, Microsoft has developed an AI model, called WHAM, that “beta tests” games early in the development cycle using AI instead of human players.
Gamers know that realistic AI can turn a good game into something great, like how the older F.E.A.R. games would realistically model how soldiers might react to a hostile, armed player. Microsoft’s World and Human Action Model (WHAM) takes the opposite approach — it tries to figure out how human players will react in a given situation, right down to a specific frame or setup within the existing game world. Microsoft calls this WHAM by the name “Muse.”
The point of Muse’s WHAM, Microsoft said, wasn’t to improve the way NPCs or in-game monsters necessarily reacted to players. Instead, WHAM was developed to make a game “feel right” — not too hard, not too easy, with interactions that felt realistic. That’s something that normally takes hours upon hours of beta testing and evaluating how gamers interact with the environment. WHAM was designed to help automate that, the company said.
Simulating video games with Muse’s WHAM
Microsoft said Wednesday that it has released the WHAM model to huggingface.com, alongside a “WHAM Demonstrator” to essentially place the AI player in a specific spawn location, and then test and evaluate what would happen if the AI made different decisions. Microsoft also published a paper describing WHAM to the Nature scientific journal, which was made available to PCWorld before publication.
To develop the model, Microsoft used about 500,000 anonymized gaming sessions (over all seven of the game’s maps) from Ninja Theory’s Bleeding Edge, a 4×4 multiplayer combat game that Ninja Theory released in 2020 but halted development on less than a year later. Each frame of the session was reduced to 300×180 resolution, then encoded into 540 AI tokens. Likewise, each motion on the Xbox controller, including the buttons, was reduced to 16 different inputs based on the stick direction and button input.
Microsoft said that the GIF below was generated by the Muse WHAM.
Microsoft
Microsoft encoded all of this gameplay into a 1.6-billion parameter model, condensing essentially seven entire years of gameplay into a single transformer. The company also developed smaller models based upon a single map, Skygarden, with 128×128 images used instead, with parameters ranging from 15 million to 894 million. (In AI, a larger number of parameters usually generates more realistic outcomes, at the cost of additional computing resources.)
Microsoft then built a concept prototype, known as the “WHAM Demonstrator” — sort of the AI chatbot based upon the WHAM model. In this case, the user was able to “place” the AI player upon a map, in relation to various objects around it. When enabled, the WHAM Demonstrator then sketched out how the “human” player was likely to respond. In this case, the developer could run and then re-run the Demonstrator to see various outcomes, then select an outcome to continue to see how the AI “human” would respond.
Microsoft’s Muse WHAM demonstration shows how the model can begin at the same frame and then end up in different places depending upon what decisions the AI makes.Microsoft
From its training, Demonstrator understood the gameplay rules and physics, though it took more training iterations to understand that some players could achieve flight, depending upon game conditions.
The idea is that the WHAM Demonstrator could be used to run different scenarios from the same starting point. In the Nature paper, Microsoft showed how WHAM, beginning with the same eight frames, could produce 16 widely divergent endpoints, based on the AI decisions that WHAM made. Even more interestingly, WHAM was developed so that users could add additional enemies or objects, and the AI would react accordingly.
Microsoft says that its Muse WHAM model is sophisticated enough to react appropriately to changes made, such as injecting another enemy or object.Microsoft
Forget fake frames: Is the future of gaming entirely AI?
Draw a line through WHAM/Muse into the future, and you arrive at a “game” which is generated more and more in real time using AI. According to Microsoft’s vice president of gaming AI, Fatima Kardar, that’s where Microsoft hopes to go — apparently following Google, which has already demonstrated consistent game worlds from a prompt.
“Today, countless classic games tied to aging hardware are no longer playable by most people,” Kardar said in a statement. “Thanks to this breakthrough, we are exploring the potential for Muse to take older back catalog games from our studios and optimize them for any device. We believe this could radically change how we preserve and experience classic games in the future and make them accessible to more players. To imagine that beloved games lost to time and hardware advancement could one day be played on any screen with Xbox is an exciting possibility for us.”
Microsoft is also exploring the idea of “modding” games using AI, and making those early experiences available to players via Copilot Labs.
Microsoft said, however, that it does not necessarily plan on using AI as part of game development. That will be up to the company’s creative leaders, Kardar said, and any AI work will be shared “earlier on” with players and creators. Read...Newslink ©2025 to PC World |  |
|  | | PC World - 19 Feb (PC World)Thinking of dipping your toe into the smart home waters? Installing a smart plug is the easiest and least expensive way to get a feel for how the technology can improve your life. Plug one into your wall, plug in a lamp or a small appliance into the smart plug, connect it to your home network with the manufacturer’s mobile app, and you’ll be ready to experience all the advantages hands-free control can bring. There’s no special wiring required.
You’ll be able to operate your smart plug remotely with your smartphone, set up a lighting schedule, or program it to turn lights on and off in a random pattern when you’re away from home. If your plug is compatible with a smart speaker—and every one worth buying will be—you can also control it with voice commands: Alexa, Google Assistant, or Siri, depending on the device. And a Matter-certified smart plug will be compatible with all of those ecosystems. Advanced users who install a complete smart home system will find smart plugs to be an essential element.
Why you should trust us
TechHive’s editors and contributors have been testing smart plugs for more than a decade, installing them in our own homes to gain truly real-world experience before we commit to our opinions. We continuously test the latest smart plugs, along with the apps that control them. We blend those experiences with our general knowledge of smart home systems, so we’re able to assess how well these products will integrate with other smart devices you’ll want to use in your home.
Our top picks in smart plugs
Leviton Decora Smart Wi-Fi Plug-in Switch (2nd Gen) (model D215P) — Best smart plug
Pros
Supports Alexa, Google Assistant, HomeKit, and Matter
Slim form factor
Simple, intuitive app
Cons
Some hiccups during initial HomeKit setup
No dimmer function (look at Leviton’s model D23LP for that)
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$19.99
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Why we like the Leviton Decora Smart Wi-Fi Plug-in Switch (2nd Gen) (model D215P)
The Leviton Decora Smart Wi-Fi Plug-in Switch (2nd Gen) (model D215P) is a compact, versatile smart switch that supports Alexa, Google Assistant, HomeKit, and Matter. Since it works with Wi-Fi, you won’t need a smart hub to get started. The D215P supports up to 15-amp loads, including up to 1500-watt incandescent lighting or 3/4-horsepower motors. It’s not the most svelte smart plug on the market, but two of them will fit in a single duplex outlet, so we won’t complain about its chunkiness; especially when it supports cool options like the Decora Smart Switch Anywhere Companion. Mount this battery-powered remote to your wall and you can turn the smart plug on and off from across the room. An available firmware update will render the D215P compatible with Matter.
Who should buy the Leviton Decora Smart Wi-Fi Plug-in Switch (2nd Gen) (model D215P)
Anyone who’s looking to get started with smart plugs will find the Leviton Decora Smart Wi-Fi Plug-in Switch (2nd Gen) (model D215P) and its accompanying app to be an easy-to-use introduction to home automation. When you’re ready to expand your smart home setup with in-wall lighting and ceiling fan controls, Leviton offers a deep well of other electrical products—up to and including smart circuit breakers for your home’s electrical load center.
If lamp dimming is on your must-have list, consider Leviton’s second-gen Decora Smart Mini Plug-In Dimmer (model D23LP), instead. The Anywhere Companion works with it, too (on/off only). As with Leviton’s D215P smart plug, an available firmware update will render this plug-in dimmer compatible with Matter.
Read our full
Leviton Decora Smart Wi-Fi Plug-in Switch (2nd Gen) (model D215P) review
Lutron Caséta Wireless Smart Lighting Lamp Dimmer Starter Kit (Model P-BDG-PKG2P) — Best smart plug, runner-up
Pros
The included remote controls give this dimmer tons of extra usability
Overall simple setup and operation
Compatible with a variety of smart home hubs and gear
Cons
Requires a wired bridge to integrate with your smart home
Onboard buttons make it much larger than other smart plugs
Only works with lamps, not smart appliances like fans or space heaters
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$189.95
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Why we like the Lutron Caséta Wireless Smart Lighting Lamp Dimmer Starter Kit (Model P-BDG-PKG2P)
While Lutron is a member of the Connectivity Standards Alliance that defines the Matter smart home standard, its products aren’t Matter compatible today. We don’t hold that against them, and we don’t think you should either. Lutron is second only to Leviton in terms of the depth of its other smart home offerings, manufacturing excellent in-wall lighting and fan controls, motion sensors, window shades and blinds, and more.
Like everything else in Lutron’s Caséta Wireless ecosystem, its smart plugs offer advanced users more settings and more control—including dimming connected lamps—using Lutron’s app, the included remote controls, or buttons on the plugs themselves. Lutron’s remote controls can be wall mounted with an accessory. The kit also includes the bridge that’s required to connect Caséta lighting (and Lutron Serena smart shades and blinds) to your Wi-Fi system. The bridge needs to be hardwired to your router; if you already have a bridge, you can buy Caséta components separately.
Who should buy the Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Lamp Dimmer Starter Kit (Model P-BDG-PKG2P)
Lutron’s Caséta dimmer plugs only work with lamps, so all that lighting control flexibility comes at the cost of these being single-task tools. On the other hand—and despite the absence of Matter support—Caséta products are broadly compatible with other smart home ecosystems, including Apple Home; Samsung SmartThings; Carrier, Ecobee, and Honeywell smart thermostats; and even Sonos speakers.
Read our full
Lutron Caséta Wireless Smart Lighting Lamp Dimmer Starter Kit (Model P-BDG-PKG2P) review
TP-Link Tapo P125M Mini Smart Wi-Fi Plug — Best smart plug, second runner-up
Pros
Matter certification guarantees broad compatibility and easy setup
We experienced zero operational hiccups
Physically small and unobtrusive
Cons
More expensive than non-Matter-certified smart plugs
No Thread radio on board
Extremely basic usage history and no energy-consumption monitoring
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$10.79
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Why we like the TP-Link Tapo P125M Mini Smart Wi-Fi Plug
One day, the Matter smart home standard will make the walls between various smart home ecosytems disappear. It won’t matter if your smartphone runs Android, iOS, or anything between. The TP-Link Tapo P125M Mini Smart Wi-Fi Plug is an outstanding example of how well Matter can work when properly implemented. And these plugs are so small, you can plug two of them into the same duplex outlet.
Who should buy the TP-Link Tapo P125M Mini Smart Wi-Fi Plug
The street price has been cut in half since we first reviewed the TP-Link Tapo P125M Mini Smart Wi-Fi Plug, making them an even more outstanding value. While there’s no energy consumption monitoring, users can easily schedule times to turn lamps on and off with your choice of the Tapo app or any other Matter-compatible smart home app.
Read our full
TP-Link Tapo P125M Mini Smart Wi-Fi Plug review
Wyze Plug (two-pack) — Best budget-priced smart plug
Pros
Very affordable
Supports Alexa, Google Assistant, and IFTTT
Cons
Only tracks usage by time, not energy consumed
On/off only; no dimming capability
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Wyze Labs
$15.99
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$19.98 ($9.99 / Count)
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$15.99 at Wyze Labs$19.98 ($9.99 / Count) at Amazon
Why we like the Wyze Plug (two-pack)
The Wyze Plug supports Alexa, Google Assistant, and IFTTT and comes in an inexpensive two-pack that sells for less than half of what one Leviton Decora (model D215P) will cost you. This plug is one of the best values in the smart home ecosystem.
Who should buy the Wyze Plug (two-pack)
The Wyze Plug is for frugal smart-home owners who don’t want dimming capabilities and don’t plan to go all in on the Matter smart home standard. Wyze also has a less complete smart home ecosystem than some other vendors, and its app can be a bit confusing, but we deliver plenty of insights on that front in our review for anyone looking for a great deal on a smart plug.
Read our full
Wyze Plug (two-pack) review
Emporia energy-monitoring smart plug — Best smart plug for tracking energy consumption
Pros
Outstanding value
Intuitive and detailed energy-tracking features
Streamlined, unobtrusive hardware
Cons
On/off control only; it can’t dim a connected lamp
No IFTTT or Matter support
LED can’t be disabled
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$11.99
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Why we like the Emporia energy-monitoring smart plug
The Emporia energy-monitoring smart plug can not only turn your lights on and off, it will also give you a detailed breakdown of how much energy whatever device plugged into it has consumed. This is an on/off plug only, it can’t dim a connected lamp, but few smart plugs are capable of energy consumption tracking.
Who should buy the Emporia energy-monitoring smart plug
For users who want detailed tracking of their home’s energy consumption, Emporia’s affordable smart plug can be combined with the Emporia Vue energy monitor, which gets wired into your home’s circuit-breaker panel to track all of your home’s energy use.
Read our full
Emporia energy-monitoring smart plug review
Tapo P400M Smart Wi-Fi Outdoor Plug — Best outdoor smart plug
Pros
Very affordable
Individual socket control in hardware and app
Matter certified
Lots of control options, in-app and via hardware
Cons
No real energy monitoring features
Setup process via the Tapo app needs improvement
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$19.99
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Why we like the Tapo P400M Smart Wi-Fi Outdoor Plug
Not only is the Tapo P400M Smart Wi-Fi Outdoor Plug our top pick in outdoor smart plugs, as of August 28, 2024, its $20 street is price low enough to also be our top pick in the budget-priced category. (The identical product is marketed at Best Buy as the Tapo TP25 Smart Wi-Fi Outdoor Plug). The two outlets on this outdoor smart plug can be independently controlled, and its support for Matter means it can be incorporated into just about any smart home ecosystem you could want: Amazon Alexa, Apple HomeKit, Google Home, Samsung SmartThings, and more. Outfitted with dual 2.4GHz Wi-Fi antennas, the manufacturer boasts up to 300 feet of wireless range (line of sight) and 164 feet with three concrete walls in between.
Who should buy the Tapo P400M Smart Wi-Fi Outdoor Plug
We rarely find a product that can we recommend to both the smart home enthusiast and the frugal shopper looking for just the basics, but that’s we have in this outdoor smart plug, whether you buy it labeled as the Tapo P400M at Amazon or elsewhere or as the Tapo TP25 at Best Buy. Matter support renders it close to universally supported amount smart home ecosystems, eliminating compatibility concerns (unless you’ve settled on the excellent Lutron Caséta platform, that is).
Read our full
Tapo P400M Smart Wi-Fi Outdoor Plug (sold as Tapo TP25 at Best Buy) review
Lutron Caséta Wireless Outdoor Smart Plug — Best outdoor smart plug for Lutron Caséta users
Pros
Part of the comprehensive Caséta ecosystem
Can be paired with optional Pico remote control
Supports pumps and electric motors in addition to lights
Robust IP66 weatherization
Cons
Provides only one receptacle
Not Matter compatible
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$79.95
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Why we like the Lutron Caséta Wireless Outdoor Smart Plug
The Lutron Caséta Wireless Outdoor Smart Plug is an outstanding choice if you’ve already invested in the Caséta platform–meaning you already have the required Wi-Fi bridge–and you need a versatile plug that can do more than control your lighting. This one can also operate small pumps and motors, so it would be a great choice for a water feature.
Who should buy the Lutron Caséta Wireless Outdoor Smart Plug
If you live in a smart home and are using other Lutron Caséta smart lighting products, the Caséta Wireless Outdoor Smart Plug is your only outdoor smart plug option. As we’ve already discussed, Caséta products are not Matter compatible, but the Caséta platform offers such broad support for other smart home ecosystems that we don’t consider that a detriment.
Read our full
Lutron Caséta Wireless Outdoor Smart Plug review
TP-Link Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Outdoor Dimmer Plug (model KP405) — Best outdoor smart dimmer
Pros
Offers the unusual feature of dimming
Robust construction and IP64 weatherization
Well priced considering the sparse competition
Cons
Provides only one outlet
We occasionally experienced delays in state changes
Not Matter compatible
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$16.19
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Why we like the TP-Link Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Outdoor Dimmer Plug (model KP405)
There probably aren’t many people who are looking for dimmer capability (as opposed to a simple on/off function) for their outdoor lighting, but the TP-Link Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Outdoor Dimmer Plug (model KP405) is one of the few outdoor smart plugs that offers that option. Fortunately, TP-Link has also delivered a sturdy and weatherproof plug that’s easy to set up.
Who should buy the TP-Link Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Outdoor Dimmer Plug (model KP405)
If you’re looking for an outdoor smart plug that can also dim a connected load, TP-Link’s Kasa Smart Outdoor Dimmer Plug is one of just a few products that fit the bill. In a tradeoff for gaining a dimming function, you’ll get only one receptacle, where most non-dimming smart plugs provide two. Unlike TP-Link’s other outdoor smart plug, however, this smart dimmer is not Matter compatible.
Read our full
TP-Link Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Outdoor Dimmer Plug (model KP405) review
TP-Link Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Power Strip (model HS300) — Best smart power strip
Pros
Six switched AC outlets that can be programmed with complex schedules
Includes an “away” mode for simulating someone present in a home or office
Works with Amazon Alexa and Google Home
Outlets can be combined in scenes with other Kasa Smart devices
Cons
No manual in the box, not even a tiny one
Power cord is slightly too short for versatile placement
No Apple HomeKit or Siri support
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$43.99
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There’s isn’t a lot of competition in this area, but TP-Link doesn’t just win by default. The Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Power Strip features six grounded outlets that can be independently controlled and scheduled, plus three fast USB charging ports. It of course offers protection from power surges as well. It might seem expensive at around $80, but it’s actually a pretty strong deal when you compare it to dual-outlet smart plugs that cost about $60.
Read our full
TP-Link Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Power Strip (model HS300) review
What to look for when shopping for a smart plug
Smart plugs might seem like a commodity, but they cover a wide range of design styles, capabilities, and compatibilities. If you’re in the market for a smart plug, consider how your environment—and what you plan to connect to the smart plug—matches the following list of features.
Indoor vs. outdoor
Most smart plugs can only be used inside, since they aren’t weatherproof. (These are almost invariably white in color.) Weatherized switches (almost always black) are clearly denoted as safe for outside use.
Outdoor smart plugs are designed to withstand the elements. They’re just the ticket for holiday and landscape lighting. Brian Nadel / IDG
Hub requirements
If you need to control the switch through a third-party hub like Samsung SmartThings, that’s one more piece of gear you’ll need to budget for. In many cases, a switch vendor will also offer its own hub as an option, though these can be limited in flexibility and features. Using a hub will also make it easier to interconnect various devices, so if you want to press a single button to turn on both overhead lights and lamps at the same time, a hub’s a great way to get this done.
Wireless standard
As with all smart home gear, smart plugs support one of several wireless technologies, ranging from Zigbee, Z-Wave, Matter, and/or Wi-Fi. Wi-Fi plugs typically don’t require a hub—your router serves that role—while Zigbee and Z-Wave models need to be bridged to Wi-Fi. Matter-certified devices can either connect directly to your Wi-Fi network (Matter over Wi-Fi) or via an onboard Thread radio (Matter over Thread). In the latter case, you’ll need a Thread border router to connect to Wi-Fi.
You’ll also encounter two proprietary standards: Clear Connect, used in Lutron’s Caséta products; and Insteon, an old-school hybrid of wireless and powerline home networking that’s uncommon these days.
Apple HomeKit support
If you’re looking for compatibility with Apple’s HomeKit devices (and want to tell Siri to turn lights on and off), you’ll need to look for this support, which should be well-labeled on a product’s website and packaging.
An alternative is to look for the Matter logo, as HomeKit is one of the smart home ecosystems (along with Amazon Alexa, Google Home, and Samsung SmartThings) that the new Matter standard supports.
Voice assistant compatibility
Many smart plugs work with Amazon Alexa, Google Assistant, or both. Support for Apple’s Siri is less common, but not hard to find. Matter-certified products are compatible with all three ecosystems. If you have Amazon Echo, Google Home, or Apple HomePod smart speakers in your home, you’ll love being able to turn sockets on and off with voice commands.
Power limitations
You can’t just plug anything into a smart plug. Most are rated to handle just a few hundred watts of power consumption, which is fine for a lamp or a coffee maker, but you might encounter problems if you connect a hair dryer, a space heater, or a professional blender to one.
Power plug manufacturers tend to bury their maximum wattage ratings in the fine print, so check carefully beforehand if you expect the outlet to support high-draw appliances.
TP-Link’s Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Power Strip includes six, independently controlled, grounded smart outlets in one.
Number of plugs
Designs vary widely here. Some smart plugs replace a single plug, some replace two. Some designs offer two plugs, but only one of them is smart; the other is an always-on pass-through plug. Whichever design you choose, be sure to consider the physical design of the device itself.
Some of these devices—even those with a single-plug design—cover up both wall sockets, which can greatly limit their utility. You’ll also find smart power strips, which offer multiple, individually controlled smart plugs in a single device.
Grounded or ungrounded
Some smart plugs offer only two-prong, ungrounded power. (This is done in part to dissuade you from attaching heavy machinery to the outlet.) If you need fully grounded electricity, be sure to purchase one of the many smart plugs on the market that includes this feature.
Some smart plugs, such as this GE by Jasco model, accept only two-prong plugs and are not directly grounded.
Energy monitoring features
Curious as to how much power your connected device is sucking down? Energy monitoring features let you use the device’s mobile app to track power consumption over time, giving you a better argument to use against your wasteful, wasteful children who never turn off the TV.
Integrated dimming
If you’re hooking up a lamp to a smart plug, you can easily turn it into a dimmable lamp if the switch includes an onboard dimmer. Some of these types of switches include hardware buttons to control dimming directly on the switch itself in addition to app and voice control. Read...Newslink ©2025 to PC World |  |
|  | | PC World - 19 Feb (PC World)Your PC is capable of running not one, but two Windows apps designed to protect you and your system against online threats: Windows Security and Microsoft Defender.
Telling them apart can be tricky, though. Thanks to a few name changes, what’s old sounds new and what’s new sounds old. If you haven’t kept up with the updates, it may not be clear which one you want — or if you actually prefer to run both.
To help you decide, I’ve broken down what each app does. Let’s dig in.
What is Windows Security?
PCWorld
Previously known as Windows Defender, Windows Security is the most current name for the app that ties Microsoft’s basic antivirus and network protections together. Similar to third-party antivirus software, you get a unified interface to make changes to the app and access manual scans. Separate tabs break out various settings:
Virus & threat protection: From this tab, you can run manual scans (Quick, Full, Custom, or Offline), change how your system screens for threats, and set up more stringent ransomware defenses.
Account protection: Guard the Microsoft account tied to your PC, as well as strengthen Windows’ login process.
Firewall & network protection: Refine your settings in order to tailor screening of incoming and outgoing traffic.
App & browser control: Adjust how Windows screens apps for suspicious behavior, and if Edge runs in an isolated, sandboxed environment.
Device security: Get information about your PC’s deeper security protections in Windows — core virtualization, security processor (TPM), and secure boot.
Device performance & health: See a quick overview of the general “health” of your PC with regard to software issues or storage drive issues.
Family options: Filter viewable content for users on the PC, as well as see breakdowns of device usage. You can manage your family group through the web portal.
Click on the arrows (desktop) or swipe (mobile) to see each tab in the Windows Security app.
What is Microsoft Defender?
PCWorld
Confusingly, the Microsoft Defender app shares its name with the antivirus engine powering Windows Security’s malware protection — but they’re not directly tied. Instead, the Defender app offers additional defenses against online threats for Microsoft 365 Personal or Family subscribers. It works equally with either Windows Security (including the Microsoft Defender Antivirus engine) or third-party antivirus software.
Identity theft monitoring: Through a partnership with Experian, Microsoft Defender will alert you to data breaches and any fraudulent activity on your credit reports. The service also provides up to $1 million in restoration costs and $100,000 in lost funds if you are a victim of identity theft.
Device protection: You can watch to see if your devices (up to four) or those linked through your Microsoft Family Group have any suspicious activity occurring and be notified through this app. Notifications will be sent through Windows’ notification system and you can also view them through the Defender app.
Previously, the Defender app also offered an encrypted VPN feature called Privacy Protection, which provided up to 50GB of data per month, detected unsecure Wi-Fi connections, and supported multiple platforms. However, in February 2025, Microsoft ended support for Privacy Protection and removed it from the Windows app.
Click on the arrows (desktop) or swipe (mobile) to see the different sections of the Microsoft Defender app.
Windows Security vs. Microsoft Defender
Windows Security and Microsoft Defender are complimentary apps rather than competing.
Windows Security defends against online threats, including ransomware, and it’s included for free with a Windows license. (Heads-up: If you ever see a popup notification telling you to call a phone number or pay to renew, you’ve either visited a compromised website or your PC has been directly compromised — time to run an antivirus scan ASAP.)
Microsoft Defender then rounds out those protections by letting you shield your online activity from other users on the same network, keeping you informed of data leaks and credit fraud, and monitoring your devices for vulnerabilities.
Should you use Microsoft Defender?
Windows Security and Microsoft Defender paired together can rival basic third-party antivirus suite subscriptions.Alaina Yee / Foundry
If you’re already a Microsoft 365 subscriber, having both Windows Security and Microsoft Defender set up and active is comparable to a very simple third-party antivirus suite subscription — and you don’t have to pay extra.
However, if you’re not yet a paid Microsoft 365 user, want additional integrated features (like a password manager), or prefer a different interface, independent antivirus software will be a better fit for your needs. You can check out our top recommendations in our best antivirus software roundup, which covers all types of plans. Read...Newslink ©2025 to PC World |  |
|  | | PC World - 18 Feb (PC World)The notorious “Blue Screen of Death” — or BSOD for short — is the biggest disaster that can befall a Windows user. The system shuts down with a cryptic error message on a blue background and is only ready for use again after a restart.
Unsaved data is lost. After the restart, Windows runs for a while until the error occurs again. In some instances, the BSOD can re-occur immediately and perpetually every time Windows is started. The system is then unusable and repairs are only possible via a second or rescue system.
This article shows several ways to access a system that no longer shows a desktop.
The causes of the complete crash are varied and not always easy to discern. We describe how the error can be investigated in more detail and what measures can be used to repair a defective Windows system.
1. Why a blue screen occurs
A Windows system crash with a blue screen is always due to a driver or the hardware.
It can also be a driver that is not directly related to the hardware, such as a virus scanner component. Drivers run in a privileged mode and have direct access to main memory areas and hardware interfaces.
If a serious, unavoidable problem occurs, the system is stopped with a stop error to prevent damage, for example to the file system. In such cases, the Windows kernel displays an error message on a blue background with white text — known as a blue screen. The system is then restarted automatically.
In some cases, the message contains the name of the driver that caused the crash. While drivers that are supplied with Windows are rarely affected, such errors occur more frequently with subsequently installed third-party drivers. This can happen immediately after installing a new driver or after an update.
Changes made by Windows updates can also lead to a crash, especially if important system functions are customized. An incompatible driver that cannot cope with these changes can then work incorrectly and bring the system to a standstill.
The blue screen often only displays a general error message that cannot be assigned to an individual driver (see point 11). An error code is also displayed, which can help to analyse the problem.
See also: Deep clean your Windows PC: 10 professional tricks and tools
2. Prevent restart
By default, Windows is configured so that the blue screen only appears very briefly and is barely legible. To keep the message visible for longer, adjust the configuration. You should take this preventive measure with every Windows system to be prepared for problems.
If Windows still starts and only crashes after some time, call up the “Settings” (Win-I) and go to “System > About” (otherwise continue reading in point 3). Click on “Advanced system settings.”
You will find the link in Windows 11 behind “Related links” under “Device specifications,” in Windows 10 on the right-hand side of the window under “Related settings.” The “System properties” window opens. (A quick way to get here is via the “Run” dialogue (Win-R): Type SystemPropertiesAdvanced and confirm with “OK.”
In the “System Properties” window, go to the “Advanced” tab and click on the “Settings” button under “Startup and Recovery.” Remove the tick next to “Perform automatic restart.”
Under “Save debug information,” select “Small memory image (256KB).” In the event of a crash, a file with the extension “.dmp” is now created in the folder “C:\Windows\Minidump,” which can be analyzed later (see point 13).
Display errors: Deactivate “Automatic restart.” Otherwise the blue screen will only appear briefly and you will usually not be able to read the error message.
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3. Fix problems with on-board tools
If Windows crashes repeatedly and shortly after starting with a blue screen, you cannot change the setting as described in point 2. However, Windows has set up a minimal Windows on a separate partition (WinRE, Windows Recovery Environment) during installation on the hard drive, which you can use for repairs.
If access to WinRE fails, continue reading in point 5.
To access the repair system: Switch on the computer using the power button, wait briefly until the Windows logo appears and Windows starts to load. Switch the PC off again by holding down the power button a little longer.
Repeat the process several times until Windows starts the automatic repair. This is usually the case after three false starts. You can recognize the mode by the message “Automatic repair is being prepared.”
Windows will attempt an automatic repair and there are two options once it is complete: The system restarts on its own and you find yourself in the same situation as before.
In this case, switch the PC on and off again repeatedly until the automatic repair starts. After several attempts, “The PC did not start correctly” appears with the “Advanced options” button. However, it is also possible that this button is already visible after the first auto-repair.
After clicking on “Advanced options,” go to “Troubleshooting > Advanced options > Startup settings” and click on “Restart.” The “Advanced startup options” menu appears, in which you use the arrow keys to select “Disable automatic restart after failure” and confirm with the Enter key.
Windows will now not restart automatically in the event of a blue screen and you can read the messages. You can also use the menu to start Windows in safe mode, which can be used to rectify errors (see point 8).
Important note: If you have encrypted the system partition with Bitlocker, you must have the recovery key ready and enter it when you are asked for it. You saved the key when you activated the encryption.
This applies to this tip, but also basically to all accesses to the installed system, which we describe in the following points. It does not matter whether you start a rescue system from the hard drive or a USB stick.
In the Windows Recovery Environment you can select to disable automatic restart after failure.Foundry
4. Advanced start options
In previous versions of Windows, you could use the F8 key to call up the advanced start options or safe mode. This no longer works with Windows 10 and 11.
Due to the fast start mode, Windows starts so quickly, especially from SSDs, that it is almost impossible to find the right time to press the F8 key. Microsoft has therefore decided to no longer query the key at all. However, if you want to be prepared for an emergency, you can change this. The trick is to reactivate the menu of the classic boot manager.
To do this, use the tool Bootice tool, which you unzip and then start the file BOOTICEx64_2016.06.17_v1.3.4.0.exe.
Step 1: Go to the “BCD” tab and click on “Easy mode.” The option “BCD of current system” must be activated.
Step 2: After clicking on “Add,” create a new boot entry with the name “Windows secured.” Customize the options so that they correspond to those of the existing entry for Windows 10 or 11.
Step 3: Deviating from this, select the entry “Safe Mode w/ Network” after “SafeBoot:”. Click on “Save current system.”
Step 4: For both boot menu entries, remove the tick in front of “Metro Boot Manager (Win8)” and click on “Save current system.” Under “Global settings,” tick “Display boot menu” and click on “Save global settings.”
When you restart Windows, the classic boot menu appears on a black background. Press the F8 key to access the menu with the advanced boot options: “Repair computer” (WinRE), “Safe mode,” “Disable automatic restart in case of system errors”.
Or you can directly select the new entry “Windows secured” in the boot menu.
Edit boot menu: Use the Bootice tool to add new entries to the Windows boot menu, for example for safe mode.
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5. Start repair system
Defects in the file system, an incorrectly configured boot manager or dysfunctional drivers can prevent the automatic repair from starting and the “boot settings” from being called up (see point 3). You should therefore always have a rescue system ready for system repairs.
Ideally, you already have one if you have installed Windows yourself from a USB stick. If not, create a USB stick for the Windows installation on another PC, which also contains repair tools.
To do this, use the Microsoft Media Creation Tool for Windows 10 or for Windows 11. Alternatively, download the ISO file for Windows 11 directly (under the heading “Download Windows 11 drive image (ISO) for x64 devices”) and create the USB stick with Rufus. The system can also be used to repair Windows 10.
Reading tip: 10 things I’d never, ever do as an IT professional
If you are using a Windows 10 ISO or Windows 11 prior to version 24H2, proceed as follows:
Step 1: Boot the PC from the installation stick. You may need to change the boot sequence in the firmware/BIOS setup under “Adjust the boot sequence.” When starting, the message “Press any key to boot from CD or DVD” appears. Press any key to activate the start of the USB stick.
Step 2: Click on the “Next” button and then on “Computer repair options.”
Step 3: Go to “Troubleshooting” and then to “Startup help.” Select the target operating system and wait for the startup repair to complete. Click on “Shut down” and switch the PC back on.
Windows should now start again from the hard drive, but this measure does not usually resolve the cause of the blue screen. However, the repair system offers further options for repairs (see points 6 and 8).
Windows 11: Since Windows 11 version 24H2, the setup tool looks slightly different. It greets you with the “Select language settings” window and you click on “Next.” You can then adjust the keyboard settings if required and click “Next.” Then select the “Repair my PC” option and click “Next.”
On the next screen, click on your preferred language for the keyboard layout. Then continue with “Troubleshooting” and “Startup help” as described in step 3 above.
Tip: “Computer repair options” or “Repair my PC” only provide a few tools. A self-created Windows rescue system offers significantly more options.
It starts from the USB stick and can be operated in almost the same way as you are used to with Windows. You can use the system for repairs, but also for data recovery and searching for malware, for example.
Using the rescue system: The system starts from the installation medium and offers a “Startup help” option that can be used to resolve some startup problems.
Microsoft
6. Deactivate auto restart
The installation and repair system started from the USB stick (point 5) does not offer the option of calling up the advanced start options. Microsoft does not intend to switch off the automatic restart from here when a blue screen occurs. This is only possible if the rescue system was started from the hard disk.
You can still prevent the restart using a trick:
Step 1: Start the repair system from the USB stick. When the window with the title “Windows 11 Setup” appears (Windows 10: “Windows Setup”), hold down the Shift key and press the F10 key.
Step 2: Type regedit and confirm with the Enter key. The registry editor displays the registry of the repair system. To change this, go to the registry branch “Hkey_Local_Machine” and then to “File > Load structure” in the menu. Navigate to the “Windows\System32\config” folder on the system drive, click on “SYSTEM” and then on “Open.”
The system drive may be located under a drive letter other than “C:”. Under “Key name,” enter the letter Z and confirm with “OK.” This mounts the registry of the installed system under “Hkey_Local_Machine\Z.”
Step 3: Go to the key “Hkey_Local_Machine\Z\ControlSet001\Control\CrashControl.” After double-clicking on “AutoReboot,” enter 0 under “Value” and click on “OK.”
Step 4: Go to “Hkey_Local_Machine\Z” and then to “File > Remove structure” in the menu. Confirm with “Yes.”
Step 5: Exit the registry editor and the command prompt. Close the setup window and confirm the cancellation of the installation with “Yes.”
If Windows restarts now, the blue screen will remain visible until you switch off the computer.
Note for Bitlocker users: You can only gain access to the system drive if you unlock it in the command prompt. To do this, use the command
manage-bde -unlock C: -recoverypassword [recovery key]
Prevent automatic reboot: In the rescue system, you can switch off the reboot by making an entry in the registry. “AutoReboot” is given the value “0”.
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7. Start repair system directly
You can access the repair system from the running Windows as follows: Click on “On/Off” in the Start menu, hold down the Shift key, and click on “Restart.” Windows will restart and you will see the “Select option” screen.
After clicking on “Troubleshoot,” “Advanced options,” “Startup settings,” and “Restart,” you will be taken to “Advanced startup options” and you can select “Disable automatic restart on system errors” or “Safe mode.”
However, if Windows crashes immediately after starting, this option is blocked and you must use the rescue system as described in point 6. As an extension of point 4, you have another option to prepare for this situation in good time.
If you include the rescue system (WinRE) directly in the boot menu, you do not have to take the diversions via the “boot settings.” However, this requires that the hard drive is accessible and that there is no hardware defect. Otherwise, the rescue system cannot be started from the hard drive and you should try the method described in point 5.
Set the Bootice tool to create a start menu entry for WinRE:
Step 1: Go to “BCD” in Bootice, leave the option “BCD of current system,” and click on “Professional mode.” Under “Application objects” you will see that there is already an entry labelled “Windows Recovery Environment,” but it is not displayed in the boot menu. It is called up via the Shift-“Restart” combination.
Step 2: Right-click on “Windows Recovery Environment” and select “Duplicate this entry” from the context menu.
Step 3: For the new entry, double-click on “Description” and enter “WinRE” as the new name, for example. Close the window.
Step 4: Click on “Easy Mode” and check the settings for the new entry “WinRE.” The entry after “Partition” must refer to the recovery partition, for example “GPT3.” Behind “Boot file:” is “\Recovery\WindowRE\Winre.wim” and behind “SDI file” something like “(hd0,3)” and “\Recovery\WindowsRE\boot.sdi.” Below “Options” behind “Boot file:” is the entry “\windows\system32\winload.efi.” If the configuration on your PC is different, correct the information.
Step 5 (optional): Remove the tick in front of “Metro Boot Manager (win8)” from all boot menu entries. This activates the classic boot manager on a black background, which displays its menu before the operating system starts.
The new Metro Boot Manager first activates the standard system in the background and displays the system selection in a graphical interface. This means that the standard system is ready for use quickly, but it takes a little longer to start WinRE.
If you restart Windows now, the installed system will be loaded automatically after a timeout of 30 seconds. Select the new boot menu entry “WinRE” to start the rescue system directly.
8. Faulty updates
Irrespective of the error message in the blue screen and without knowing the exact cause, simple measures usually help to eliminate the BSOD problem.
We assume that Windows was running correctly immediately after the computer was reinstalled or started up for the first time and that the error was only triggered later by a change to the system. Recent Windows or driver updates, the installation of new software, or even a software update are suspected.
If Windows is still starting: In the “Settings” (Win-I), go to “Apps > Installed apps” (Windows 10: “Apps > Apps and features”). Under “Sort by,” set “Date of installation.” The most recently installed programs will then appear at the top of the list.
After a plausibility check, uninstall the most recently installed program(s). Programs that start automatically and use system services or drivers are possible sources of error.
Proceed in the same way with Windows updates. Go to “Windows Update” in the “Settings” (Windows 10: “Update & Security > Windows Update”). Set a longer period behind “Suspend updates,” for example “Suspend for 4 weeks.” This will prevent a faulty update from being reinstalled immediately.
Windows 10 users click on “Advanced options” and set a date in the future under “Suspend until:”.
Click on “Update history” or, for Windows 10, on “Show update history.” Under headings such as “Quality updates” and “Driver updates,” you will see chronological lists of installed updates with the corresponding KB numbers.
Clicking on an entry takes you to a Microsoft page with further information on an update. An internet search for the respective KB number can provide information on whether errors or crashes are already known in connection with this update.
Which updates have just been installed? The “Update history” shows the Windows updates in chronological order. The KB number can be used to search for information on the internet.
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Click on “Uninstall updates” below “Related settings” (Windows 10: “Uninstall updates” link at the top of the window) and remove the update that is causing the blue screen.
In Windows 10, the link in the Control Panel leads to “Uninstall updates.” However, not all updates can be removed because they build on each other. Windows 11 therefore only shows the latest updates that you can uninstall. Windows 10 also shows older updates, but the “Uninstall” button only appears if you click on one of the newer entries.
If Microsoft has corrected the error in the Windows update, the update can be reinstalled. The set update delay should provide sufficient time for this.
Carry out repairs in safe mode: If Windows does not run stable enough in standard mode, try safe mode. To do this, call up the “Startup settings” as described under point 3 or 4 and select “Enable Safe Mode.” Windows will then only load the most necessary drivers, which makes a blue screen less likely.
Windows updates and programs can be uninstalled in safe mode in the same way as in standard mode. You can also call up System Restore (see point 9).
Uninstall updates via the rescue system: If Windows no longer starts and even safe mode does not help, boot the PC from the installation disc (see point 5) and start “Repair my PC” (Windows 10: “Computer repair options”). Click on “Troubleshoot” and then on “Uninstall updates” in the “Advanced options” window.
As a rule, select “Uninstall the latest quality update,” which will remove the latest Windows update. Click on “Uninstall the latest feature update” if you installed it shortly before the blue screen first appeared.
Under “Advanced options” you can also click on “Restore system” and select a previously saved restore point (see point 9).
Remove updates: If a recent Windows update is suspected of causing a blue screen, it can be uninstalled.
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9. Use recovery
Windows and some setup programs create a restore point before making major changes to the system. The prerequisite for this is that System Restore is activated (see box “Using restore points for a backup”).
In Windows 11 from 24H2, press Win-R, type rstrui and click “OK.” In the “System Restore” window, the option “Recommended restore” is preset, which displays the date of the last restore point.
As a rule, select this if the date is shortly before the first occurrence of the blue screen. Otherwise, activate the option “Select another restore point.” After clicking on “Next,” select the desired restore point.
In the “Confirm restore point” window, click on “Search for affected programs.” System Restore will now show you programs, drivers, and Windows updates that were installed after the restore point was created.
Make a note of the contents of the list so that you can reinstall these programs later. However, this could also include the software that caused the problem. Personal documents are always retained during the restore.
Back in the main System Restore window, click on “Finish.” Confirm the process with “Yes.” Windows will begin the restore process and then restart.
The process is similar for older Windows 11 versions and Windows 10. After clicking “Next” for the first time, you will see a list of restore points from which you can select the desired entry. Tick “Show more restore points” to see older versions. Then continue as described for Windows 11.
10. Eliminate driver errors
The measures described under points 8 and 9 can be used to remove drivers or undo driver updates. If the error message in the blue screen refers to a specific driver, this can also be dealt with specifically. If you do not know which device a driver belongs to, search the internet for the name of the driver.
While Windows is running, open the Device Manager, for example by pressing the Win-X key combination or right-clicking on the Start menu, which will take you to the menu for administrative tools.
Go to the affected device, right-click on the entry, go to “Update driver” and then to “Search for drivers automatically.” If an update is available, install it. Alternatively, you can also go to the hardware manufacturer’s website and check for updates.
Undoing an update: If a newly installed driver does not work properly and causes a blue screen, restore the previous version of the driver via the Device Manager.Foundry
Use older driver: If a driver has become unusable due to an update, revert to the previous version. In the Device Manager, go to “Properties” in the context menu of the affected hardware and click on the “Driver” tab.
Click on “Previous driver” — if available — and select a suitable option under “Why do you want to revert to the previous driver?” Click on “Yes” and the driver will be replaced.
Use the rescue system: If Windows no longer starts, boot the PC from the installation medium (see point 5). As soon as the window with the title “Windows 11 Setup” appears (Windows 10: “Windows Setup”), hold down the Shift key and press the F10 key.
A command prompt opens, in which you type notepad and confirm with the Enter key. Go to “File > Open” and select “All files” after “File type.” The “Open” dialogue can now be used as a file manager.
Go to “Windows\System32\Drivers” in the system drive and search for the problematic driver. Use the “Properties” context menu item to display the manufacturer of the driver on the “Details” tab.
As a rule, you should not do anything with a Microsoft driver unless you know exactly what the consequences are. If it is a third-party driver, rename the file, for example from “Driver.sys” to “Driver.sys.bak.”
Windows will then be unable to load the driver and the system should boot without errors. However, the associated device will no longer work. For a permanent solution, install an updated driver or search for a solution in the manufacturer’s support forums.
Use restore points for a backup
To be prepared for an emergency, you should check whether System Restore is active. You can find the options in the Control Panel.
For a quick call, press Win-R, type SystemPropertiesProtection and confirm with “OK.” Go to the “System Protection” tab. If the value “On” is shown in the “Protection” column under “Protection settings” for the system drive, the backup function is active.
Otherwise, click on the system drive and then on “Configure.” Activate the “Turn on system protection” option. Use the slider under “Disk Space Usage” to specify how much space the operating system should reserve for backups.
Select a two-digit gigabyte value and confirm the change with “OK.” Back in the previous window, click “Create” to create a first backup.
Windows sometimes creates restore points automatically, for example before updates or when installing new software. However, you cannot rely on this. You should therefore create restore points manually before making major changes.
Turn on System Protection in Windows before making changes to your system, so you can revert to the previous state if something goes awry.
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11. Unspecific errors
Sometimes the blue screen displays error messages that do not specifically refer to a driver. An example of this is “IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL,” which indicates an incompatible or outdated driver.
However, you often do not find out which driver it is. “UNEXPECTED_KERNEL_MODE_TRAP” can occur when PC components overheat. You should therefore check the fan performance and clean the fans if necessary. The blue screen may display “DATA_BUS_ ERROR” or “PAGE_FAULT_IN_NON_PAGED_ AREA” if the RAM is defective.
Eliminate a serious boot problem: The message “INACCESSIBLE_BOOT_DEVICE” (stop error 7B) occurs when Windows cannot access the system partition. Faulty updates or drivers as well as defects in the file system or a damaged drive may be the cause.
In the rescue system (see points 5 and 10), use Notepad to test whether access to the hard drive is still possible. If not, check in the BIOS/firmware setup whether the hard drive or SSD has been recognized. If this is not the case, check the data cable and power supply to the drive.
If the drive cannot be put into operation, it is probably defective and you will need to replace it.
To confirm the diagnosis, you should use an independent operating system to check whether the drive can be accessed. A Linux live system such as Ubuntu, which you can run with Rufus onto a USB stick and then boot. You can also access Windows drives via the Linux file manager.
If access to the hard drive is possible, try the “start help” via Windows in the rescue system (see point 5). If this does not help, check and repair important system files. In the rescue system, run the following at the command prompt
sfc /scannow /offbootdir=C:\ /offwindir=C:\Windows
The drive letter may differ in the rescue system. Determine it via the “Open” dialogue of Notepad. If this does not work either, start the following two command lines in the rescue system one after the other
Dism /Image=C:\ /Cleanup-Image /ScanHealth
Dism /Image=C:\ /Cleanup-Image /CheckHealth
If one of the commands reports an error, use the following command line
Dism /Image=C:\ /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth
Adjust the drive letters for your system.
“Blue screen of death”: If Windows shows the error “INACCESSIBLE_BOOT_DEVICE”, the boot manager is incorrectly configured or the system drive is defective.
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12. Repair Windows startup files
The “Startup help” attempts to repair the boot environment, but this is not always successful. A manual repair is more likely to be successful. To do this, start the command prompt in the rescue system. Type in diskpart and confirm with the Enter key.
Use list disk to display the drives and select the system drive with sel disk 0, for example. Use list vol to display the volumes. The EFI partition is formatted with the “FAT32” file system and is approximately 100MB in size.
If the EFI partition is called “Volume 2,” for example, mount it as drive “B:” with the following two commands:
sel vol 2
assign letter=b:
Press Esc to leave Diskpart. Execute the following four command lines on the command line
cd /d b:\EFI\Microsoft\Boot
bootrec /fixboot
ren BCD BCD.bak
bcdboot C:\Windows /l de-de /s b: /f UEFI
Replace the drive letter “C:” with the letter previously determined for Sfc. Restart the computer. The UEFI boot environment should then work again.
Boot repair: To repair the UEFI boot environment, you must first assign a drive letter to the EFI partition (FAT32) in the command prompt using Diskpart.IDG
Restore Windows to factory settings
Microsoft offers several seemingly simple solutions for serious Windows problems. In “Settings” (Win-I), go to “System” and click on “Recovery” (Windows 10: “Update & Security > Restore”).
After clicking on “Reset PC” (Windows 10: “Let’s go”), select “Keep my files.” Installed programs, drivers and Windows settings will be deleted, but personal files will be retained. Windows will show you which programmes are affected after clicking on “Show apps that will be removed”.
The second option – “Remove everything” – corresponds to a new Windows installation. The personal files are lost and must be restored later from a previously created backup.
Windows 11 also offers the option “Reinstall now” under “System -‘ Recovery”, below “Fix problems with Windows Update”. Unlike “Reset PC”, Windows does not use the files saved on the hard drive, but downloads the current Windows version.
The advantage: You no longer have to install many updates and the system is up to date. However, the download takes some time if you have a slow internet connection.
If Windows no longer starts and the “Settings” can therefore not be called up, reinstalling via a Windows installation medium (see point 5) is the final solution. You must back up your own files beforehand.
Before resorting to these radical and time-consuming methods, you should consider the other measures described in this article.
Restore factory settings: The reset function replaces system files with the original version. This can rectify many errors, but you will have to reinstall all programs.Foundry
13. Error analysis tools
The cause of a blue screen, be it a faulty driver or a problem with a Windows update, cannot usually be rectified directly. Instead, the problem can often only be circumvented. However, there are various tools that can analyze the crash and the generated memory image in more detail.
Although these tools are primarily intended for developers who want to check their own drivers, they can also be helpful for normal Windows users. The information provided can be used to search the internet for possible causes and solutions to the error.
The tool Who Crashed. After clicking on “Analyze,” it searches for .dmp files (point 2) and displays descriptions.
The Microsoft tool Windbg (via Microsoft Store app) can open .dmp files via “File > Open Dump File.” In the “Command” area, click on “!analyze -v”. Windbg then displays extensive information, including the name of the driver concerned.
Bluescreen View automatically opens all .dmp files from the folder “C:\Windows\MiniDump.” The name of the driver that caused the crash appears first in the “File name” column. You can perform a Google search for error messages and drivers via the “File” menu. Read...Newslink ©2025 to PC World |  |
|  | | RadioNZ - 17 Feb (RadioNZ) The Defence Force has taken the Selwyn District Council to the Environment Court over its refusal to ban residents living near an army rifle range from complaining about its noise. Read...Newslink ©2025 to RadioNZ |  |
|  | | PC World - 15 Feb (PC World)There are various reasons why Windows does not start. The first assumption is a defect in the boot environment that prevents the system from starting. However, causes can also be a defective file system, defective system files, or a hardware problem.
Errors manifest themselves differently depending on the cause. If the screen remains completely black after you have switched on the PC or laptop, there is probably a hardware fault.
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Windows 11 Pro
If a logo or messages from the firmware appear but then nothing happens, the PC is obviously trying to start the system but cannot find an operating system.
If the boot loader or system files are faulty, the automatic repair will usually start. Windows then attempts to rectify the defect, but this is not always successful. However, the problem can be solved with a manual repair.
1. The phases of Windows startup
To find the error, first determine in which phase of the system startup it occurs. There are four phases in total:
1. When you switch on the computer, the firmware searches for a bootable drive. On current devices, this is the UEFI partition (Unified Extensible Firmware Interface) in which Windows has placed the boot manager during installation.
The partition is 100MB in size and formatted with the FAT32 file system. Devices from the Windows XP or 7 era have a bootstrap code in the MBR (Master Boot Record) of the hard drive. Windows 10 and 11 do not use a hard drive with an MBR partition by default, which is why we will not discuss this further in this article.
If an error occurs in this phase, you will see a message on a black background, for example “Boot failure,” “No bootable device found,” “Failed to load Windows Boot Manager,” or similar.
2. The UEFI firmware loads the Windows boot manager from the file “\EFI\Microsoft\Boot\bootmgfw.efi” from the UEFI partition. This reads the configuration from the file “\EFI\Microsoft\Boot\BCD” (Boot Configuration Data). This contains information on the Windows installation location (hard drive and partition) and a reference to the file “\Windows\system32\winload.efi.”
If errors occur in this phase, the automatic repair will start or you will receive a message on a blue background with further information or instructions.
3. Winload.efi is the system-loading program. It loads drivers and then the Windows kernel. During this phase, you will see the Windows logo signaling the start of the system.
4. The Windows kernel activates other drivers and services that are configured in the Windows registry. The kernel is the actual operating system and is responsible for managing hardware components, main memory, and resources. It hands over control to the session manager (Smss.exe).
Errors in phase 3 or 4 also lead to automatic repair or display a message on a blue background (“blue screen”).
Windows starts the automatic repair function if there are start-up problems. However, this does not resolve all errors and repairs must be carried out manually.Foundry
2. Check the firmware settings before repairs
You should first check whether the firmware has recognized the drive, whether the boot sequence is correct, and whether the Windows boot manager has a boot entry.
Carry out this check for errors in phase 1, but it is also at least informative for errors in other phases.
Depending on the computer, you can access the BIOS/firmware setup with keys such as Esc, F1, F2, F10, F12 or ENTF, which you press shortly after switching on. If the automatic repair starts but was unsuccessful, you can access the repair system by clicking on “Advanced options.”
For some errors, Windows also offers you to start the recovery environment via the F1 key. You can also access the firmware setup via “Troubleshooting > Advanced options > UEFI firmware settings.”
Every computer’s configuration interface looks different, and laptops usually do not offer many settings. Under a menu such as “Advanced,” for example, you will find settings such as “M.2 SSD Ports” (NVMe) and “SATA Ports.”
Make sure that the ports used are activated (“Enabled”). The firmware usually also lists the connected drives on the same page. If no drives are displayed, continue reading in point 6.
Check the boot sequence under a menu such as “Boot.” “Windows Boot Manager” should be in the first position. If this entry does not appear, the firmware has not found the EFI partition or the Windows boot manager.
The firmware of desktop PCs offers significantly more settings and is correspondingly confusing. The options for NVMe and SATA ports, for example, can be found under menus such as “Settings” or “Advanced.” Boot devices and boot options are usually displayed under a menu such as “Boot.” Make sure that all necessary ports for drives are activated and that “Windows Boot Manager” is in the first position in the boot sequence.
If the firmware displays the system drive and “Windows Boot Manager” is available as a boot option, the requirements for starting Windows have been met. In the next step (point 3), find out whether access to the file system is possible and whether the Windows boot files are available (point 4).
Further reading: Deep clean your Windows PC: 10 professional tricks and tools
For Windows to be able to use a hard disk or SSD, it must first be recognized by the PC’s firmware. This can be checked in the firmware setup.IDG
3. Examine the situation on the hard drive
As Windows no longer starts, you will need a secondary or repair system that you can use to access the hard drive. You can use the Windows installation system, which you boot from a USB stick.
It is not only used to install Windows, but also offers a minimal Windows (WinPE, Preinstallation Environment) that can be used for analysis and repairs. If you do not have a stick prepared in this way, you will need another PC to create it.
Download the Microsoft Media Creation Tool for Windows 10 or for Windows 11 or alternatively the ISO file for Windows 11 (under the heading “Download Windows 11 drive image (ISO) for x64 devices”). Then create the USB stick with Rufus. The Windows 11 system can also be used to repair Windows 10.
Further reading: 9 tweaks that turn off your Windows PC’s most annoying ads
Change the boot sequence in the firmware setup (see point 2) so that the system boots from the USB stick. When starting, the message “Press any key to boot from CD or DVD” appears. Press any key to activate the boot from the USB stick.
After starting, you will see a window with the title “Windows 11 Setup” or “Windows Setup” for Windows 10. Press the key combination Shift-F10 to open a command prompt. Type
c:
and then
dir
and confirm each time with the Enter key. Sometimes the system drive is given a different letter. In this case, try “D:” and “E:” instead of “C:”.
The dir command lists the files and directories. The typical folders “Program Files” and “Windows” should be visible on the system drive. If you receive an error message instead, access to the drive is not possible. For further analysis, continue reading in point 6.
Alternatively, enter notepad in the command prompt and confirm with the Enter key. Go to “File > Open” and select “All files” after “File type.” The “Open” dialog can now be used as a file manager and you can check the folders and their contents.
Important note: If you have encrypted the system partition with Bitlocker, you must use the recovery key that you saved during encryption. Without this key, the drive cannot be accessed. This applies to this point, but basically to all access to the installed system, which we describe in the following points.
To unlock the drive, use the following command in the command prompt
manage-bde -unlock C: -recoverypassword [recovery key]
Replace the placeholder “[recovery key]” with the value from the file with the saved key.
Further reading: 15 obscure Windows 11 tricks for PC power users
Use the “Open” dialog as a simple graphical interface when accessing the file system
Foundry
4. How to check the EFI partition
The EFI partition is hidden and Windows does not assign it a drive letter. To change this, enter the following in the command prompt
diskpart
in the command prompt and confirm with the Enter key.
Use list disk to display the drives and select the system drive with sel disk 0, for example. Use list vol to display the volumes. The EFI partition is formatted with the “FAT32” file system and is approximately 100MB in size.
If the EFI partition is called “Volume 2,” for example, mount it as drive “B:” with the following two commands:
sel vol 2
assign letter=b:
Press exit to leave Diskpart.
Start Notepad via the command prompt and go to “File > Open.” Click on “This PC” and navigate to drive “B:”. Set “All files” behind “File type.” Go to the folder “Efi\Boot” in which the file “bootx64.efi” must be located.
Then open the folder “Efi\Microsoft\Boot.” Here you will find the “BCD” file with the boot configuration, as well as the “bootmgfw.efi” and “bootmgr.efi” files of the Windows boot manager. If these folders or files are not present, Windows cannot start.
5. To repair the Windows boot environment
Execute the following command line in the command prompt
bcdboot C:\Windows /l de-de /s b: /f UEFI
Replace the drive letter “C:” with the letter previously determined in point 3. Restart the computer. The UEFI boot environment should then work again.
Alternative method: Boot the PC from a USB stick with the Windows installation system. For Windows 11, select the language settings and the keyboard settings and click on “Next.”
Then select the “Repair my PC” option, click “Next” and select the desired language again. Windows 10 users click on “Next” and then on “Computer repair options.” Go to “Troubleshoot > Startup help” and then to the system you want to repair.
However, the “Startup help” is not always successful. The method described above using the command prompt usually works more reliably.
6. Problem accessing the hard drive
If the PC firmware does not display the system drive, there is a hardware problem. Here is a short checklist:
Are all cables firmly connected to the PC, such as the power cable and the cable from the graphics card to the monitor?
Are the cables inside the PC firmly plugged into the designated connections? Cables may have come loose after transporting the device.
Are there any unusual noises coming from the hard drive? Clicking noises or loud whirring indicate a defective drive.
Disconnect all USB devices except the keyboard and mouse from the PC. If there are other hard drives in the PC, disconnect them as well. If only the system hard drive is connected, other sources of error can be ruled out.
Switch off the device completely. Disconnect it from the power supply for some time before switching it on again.
If the firmware has recognized the drive, try an independent second system. A Windows-based rescue system is ideal, such as Win10XPE. It uses WinPE like the Windows installation system, but with a desktop interface and additional tools. You create Win10XPE on another PC, but this takes a lot of time.
An alternative is a Linux live system that can also access drives formatted with the NTFS or FAT32 file system. Suitable, for example, is Ubuntu, which you can install with Rufus onto a USB stick and then boot.
However, even a second system cannot access a destroyed file system or a defective hard drive. But it may still be possible to recover important files.
A rescue system such as Win10XPE offers numerous tools for analyzing and repairing a Windows system. However, you have to create the rescue system yourself.IDG
7. Repair important system files
Even if the boot environment is okay, Windows may refuse to start. Windows will then attempt to start, but will abort with an error message on a blue background. In this case, system files or the Windows registry are probably damaged.
The Windows installation system can also help here. First try the start help function as described in point 5. If this has no effect, go to “Troubleshoot” and then to “Restore system.”
Follow the wizard’s instructions to restore the system to a previous restore point. Windows and some setup programs automatically create a restore point before making major changes to the system.
A system that has been in operation for some time should therefore have several restore points. After the restore, however, you will have to reinstall updates and software that were added after the point in time at which the restore point was created.
Carry out a manual repair: The System File Checker (SFC) can be used to check and repair important system files. This also works in the command prompt of the Windows installation system. Use the following command line:
sfc /scannow /offbootdir=C:\ /offwindir=C:\Windows /offlogfile=C:\Log.txt
The drive letter may differ. Determine it as described in point 3.
8. Reset Windows or reinstall
If errors occur in phases 2 to 4 (see point 1), the automatic repair starts. If this does not resolve the error any more than the other measures in this article, click on “Advanced options” to access the WinRE (Windows Recovery Environment) repair system.
Go to “Troubleshooting,” then to “Reset this PC” and click on “Keep my files.”
You can now choose between two options:
“Cloud download”: installs the latest version of Windows from the Internet, which takes a little longer.
“Local reinstallation”: Uses files stored on the hard drive.
Follow the further instructions of the wizard.
The prerequisite for this function is that WinRE is correctly installed and can be started. If not, the only option is to reinstall Windows using the Windows installation medium. Create backup copies of important files beforehand using a second system (see point 6).
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