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| PC World - 29 Mar (PC World)You’ll need to make a raft of decisions before you choose which smart switches to install in your home, and your choices will be influenced by everything from the type of wiring in your walls to what flavor of smart home system you have now or plan to install later. Here’s what you need to know in roughly the order you’ll need to decide.
Is there a neutral wire in the box?
Many smart switches and dimmers require the presence of a neutral wire in the electrical box inside the wall, in addition to the line (power from the circuit-breaker panel), load (power to the light to be controlled), and ground (a low-resistance path for electricity to flow to the ground in the event of a malfunction) wires. Smart switches have radios that must be constantly powered, and the neutral wire is usually what supplies that juice.
While all homes have neutral wires, many older homes don’t have a neutral wire in every box. If you’re not sure if there’s a neutral wire at the location you want to install a smart switch, this how-to story will help you figure it out. If you don’t have a neutral wire, Lutron’s Caséta and Diva smart dimmers and the GE Cync Dimmer (3-wire version) are among the few smart switches that do not require one.
Most smart switches depend on the presence of a neutral wire to supply energy to their radios, but many homes built prior to the 1980s don’t have a neutral wire in every box. GE Cync and Lutron Caséta are among the few smart switches that don’t depend a neutral wire. GE Lighting
Can the light be controlled from more than one location?
If the light you wish to control is connected to just one switch, then you’ll need to replace it with a single-pole smart switch. If more than one switch controls that load—switches on opposite sides of a room, for example—then you’ll need to replace it with a multi-pole (aka 3-way) smart switch. This typically means that you’ll also need to buy a companion switch or switches for the other end(s) of the circuit. There are a few exceptions to this rule, so check the documentation accompanying whichever smart switch you decide to buy before you install it.
Which control system do you want to use?
You’ll undoubtedly want to control your smart lighting with your smartphone or tablet, and most people will also want to turn lights on and off with voice commands spoken to a smart speaker, such as an Amazon Echo or a Nest Hub. But to do that, the smart switch you buy must have some way of connecting to your home network (which explains why Bluetooth smart switches can’t talk to smart speakers).
Some smart switches connect directly to your Wi-Fi network, while others require a bridge to your router. If you’ve invested in a smart home system—Samsung SmartThings, Hubitat Elevation, Vivint Smart Home, or any other ecosystem—you’ll want to make sure that the smart switch you buy is compatible with it. These are the most common communication protocols you’ll encounter.
Bluetooth smart switches are controlled directly by an app on your smartphone or tablet. Bluetooth smart lighting is simple, because you don’t need a hub or a connection to your home network. That isolation also makes it secure, because you must be within about 30 feet of the switch to pair with it. On the other hand, authorized users also must be within 30 feet of a Bluetooth switch to control it, and you can’t control the switch when you’re away from home (although most Bluetooth switches can be controlled according to a pre-programmed schedule). The other major limitation of Bluetooth switches is that they can’t be controlled by smart speakers or smart home hubs, which generally rely on one of the other wireless protocols described here. As a result, Bluetooth-only switches have become relatively rare.
Lutron Clear Connect is a proprietary wireless protocol used by Lutron Caséta Wireless smart home devices, including switches, dimmers, ceiling fan controllers, occupancy sensors, motorized blinds and shades, and battery-powered remote controls. You can also control a limited number of third-party devices with Lutron’s app—ranging from thermostats to Wi-Fi speakers—and incorporate them into smart home “scenes.” Clear Connect operates independently of your Wi-Fi network, but you must hardwire a Lutron Smart Bridge to your router to use it. You can control Lutron Caséta devices via Lutron’s app, with voice commands spoken to smart speakers, and from mobile devices anywhere you have broadband access. Some smart home systems, including Samsung SmartThings, can also incorporate Lutron’s smart home products.
Matter is the most recent smart home standard. It aims to be an overarching standard incorporating several other smart home standards, including Thread, Wi-Fi, and Zigbee. Matter’s promise is that it will one day unite all the various smart home ecosystems: Amazon Alexa, Apple HomeKit, Google Home, and Samsung SmartThings among them. Matter could become more important over time, but we don’t consider the absence of Matter support or compatibility to be a reason to avoid any smart home product today.
Thread is a low-power networking technology that’s a core element of the Matter smart home standard. It’s similar to Z-Wave and Zigbee in that Thread devices can talk directly to each other; unlike those standards, Thread doesn’t depend on a central hub. Matter devices can use either Thread or Wi-Fi, but battery-powered devices are more likely to use Thread because of its low power requirements. To access Thread devices from the internet, you’ll need to have a Thread border router, such as the Aqara Hub M3, the Aeotec Smart Home Hub; several models of Amazon Echo smart speakers and Echo Show smart displays; an Apple TV 4K (2nd-gen and up), an Apple HomePod or HomePod mini; some later-model Eero routers; a Nest Wifi or Nest Wifi Pro; or a Samsung SmartThings Station. This is not a complete list.
Wi-Fi has gained a foothold in smart lighting thanks to the rise of mesh routers that blanket your home with network coverage. The attraction of Wi-Fi smart switches is that they generally don’t require a hub or a bridge to connect to your router (although Leviton does have some Wi-Fi products that communicate over a proprietary network with a plug-in bridge that connects them to Wi-Fi. While Wi-Fi is incorporated into the Matter smart home standard, that doesn’t mean every Wi-Fi device is automatically Matter compatible.
Z-Wave This is a wireless mesh network technology in which each node on the network is also a repeater that can forward commands to other Z-Wave devices nearby. It operates in the unlicensed 800- to 900MHz radio spectrum (specifically, 908.42MHz in North America). Its low power requirement means it can be incorporated into battery-operated devices that cannot be plugged directly into an electrical circuit, including door/window sensors, smart locks, water leak detectors, and motion sensors in addition to smart dimmers and switches. You’ll need a smart home hub, such as a Samsung SmartThings, to act as a bridge to your Wi-Fi network. There are fewer Z-Wave products available today, compared to the standard’s heyday, and some of the Z-Wave dimmers and switches we’ve reviewed from Jasco and Leviton are no longer in production, but some other brands are still available. Note that Z-Wave Long Range (LR) family of chips that was introduced in 2020 do not operate on a mesh network. They use a star network topology in which each Z-Wave LR node communicates directly with the Z-Wave hub that’s connected to your router for internet access.
Zigbee This wireless mesh network technology is very similar to Z-Wave, but it operates in the unlicensed 2.4GHz radio spectrum (same as single-band Wi-Fi). Like Z-Wave, Zigbee has a lower power requirement and can be incorporated into both battery and line-powered devices, ranging from sensors to smart switches. And as with Z-Wave, you’ll need a smart home hub or some other kind of bridge to connect Zigbee devices to your home network. This could be something as simple as an Amazon Echo Plus, which has an integrated Zigbee radio, or it could be on the order of a Samsung SmartThings hub, which has both Zigbee and Z-Wave radios onboard. Like Wi-Fi, Zigbee is part of the Matter smart home standard; also like Wi-Fi, not every Zigbee device is automatically Matter compatible.
Lutron’s Aurora Smart Dimmer prevents a conventional toggle switch from shutting off the power to any Philips Hue smart bulbs that are connected to the switch. It can also wirelessly control those bulbs, including dimming them by rotating the knob. Lutron
Which design aesthetic do you prefer?
Since most people control smart switches and dimmers with voice commands, they soon discover that they rarely physically interact with the devices in their walls. But you’ll want to consider the type of mechanism the smart switch uses if for no other reason than to ensure its aesthetic matches the rest of your home. These are the most common types you’ll encounter.
Relatively few manufacturers make smart switches that look like this type of old-fashioned toggle switch.
Michael Brown/Foundry
Rocker (aka paddle) This type of switch has a wide plastic panel that rocks back and forth when pressed to turn the controlled load on and off (one side of the switch raises when the other is depressed). These modern-looking switches hug the wall and are very easy to operate. Since a command issued over the air will override whatever physical state the switch is otherwise in, smart rocker switches typically don’t physically flip, so there’s no confusion when you see a lit bulb when the switch is ostensibly in the “off” position. A smart dimmer switch might have a secondary control—a vertical slider or a horizontal rocker—for adjusting brightness
Toggle A toggle switch operates by moving a lever up and down (flipping the lever up turns the controlled light on, and flipping it down turns it off). These types of switches tend to look more old-fashioned than rocker switches, but you can find smart versions of them if you want something that at least resembles the other switches you have in your walls. As with smart rocker switches, they generally don’t completely change physical appearance when switched on or off.
Touch High-end smart switches and dimmers feature touch-sensitive surfaces. Typically made of glass, touch-sensitive smart switches and dimmers are usually backlit by one or more LEDs that can be multiple colors. The touch sensitivity can be as simple as touch to turn the switch on and touch again to turn it off, or it can be as complex as displaying a user interface that supports finger swipes for calling up different lighting scenes or control elements. Needless to say, these types of smart switches and dimmers cost considerably more than simple plastic devices.
Brilliant’s touchscreen panel lets you see and talk with a person at your door when a visitor activates your Ring Video Doorbell.
Christopher Null/Foundry
Which wiring connection do you prefer?
Smart switches and dimmers tend to be larger than their dumb counterparts, so you should consider how the new switch will fit in your existing electrical box. This is particularly important if you’re installing multiple smart switches next to each other in a single box. Remember that there will typically be at least four wires to deal with—line, load, neutral, and ground—and that there will also be a traveler wire if you’re dealing with a multi-pole circuit. It can be challenging to stuff all those wires and the new switch back into the box. These are the most common types of electrical connections you’ll encounter in smart switches.
Backstabs These are holes in the back of the switch into which you’ll push (“stab”) the appropriate solid copper wires coming out of the wall.
Pigtails Some switches have short electrical wires emerging from the back of the switch that you’ll attach to the wires coming out of the wall, using wire nuts to secure them. This is generally the easiest technique, but if the switch is deep, it can be a challenge to pack the extra wires and the wire nuts tightly enough into the box so that the switch mounts flush against the wall. It can be particularly difficult if the box has other devices in it.
Terminals With this type of switch, you’ll wind the wires coming out of the wall around flat screws on the sides of the switch and then tighten the screws down. This technique presents less of a challenge when it comes to pushing the wires and the switch back into the box, but the wires can be stiff and you’ll need to be careful to ensure the stripped wire doesn’t come into contact with stripped wires connected to adjacent switches in the box or the box itself, if it’s metal.
Pigtails and wire nuts are one common way to connect a smart switch to your existing in-wall wiring.Christopher Null/Foundry
The final step
Once you’ve answered these questions, the next step is to decide which smart dimmer or switch you want to install in your walls. To help answer that question, read our picks for the best smart dimmers and switches. Read...Newslink ©2025 to PC World |  |
|  | | PC World - 29 Mar (PC World)Looking for the easiest path to smart lighting? Screw a smart bulb into a socket. Done! If you’re looking for something with more elegance and sophistication, however, you should replace the switches in your walls. Besides, the most common drawback of relying on smart bulbs with conventional switches is that someone inevitably turns the switch off. Boom! Your expensive smart bulb is now a dumb bulb that can’t be controlled with voice commands or be included in any lighting automations you’ve set up.
If there’s a downside to converting to smart in-wall dimmers and switches, it’s installing them. Don’t worry, it’s an easy DIY project. Be aware, however, that most–but certainly not all–smart controls depend on the presence of a neutral wire in the box. The neutral wire will supply constant power to the device’s radio, even when the load it’s controlling is turned off. If you’re not comfortable dealing with high-voltage wiring, hire an electrician for the job.
Now, don’t think we’re besmirching smart bulbs. They have their place, too; if for no other reason than being able to change the color of the lighting in a room. I’ve lived with smart lighting in my home for more than 15 years, and I can’t imagine turning my lights on and off without the options of using a voice command, in response to motion, on schedules, or with a smartphone app. You won’t be disappointed in the results.
Need more information before you choose a specific product? We can answer all your questions about choosing the right type of smart dimmer or switch at the preceding link.
Why you should trust us
TechHive’s editors and contributors have been testing smart switches and dimmers for more than that 15 years, installing them in our own homes to gain truly real-world experience before we commit to our opinions. We continuously test the latest smart dimmers and switches, along with the apps that control them. We blend those experiences with our general knowledge of smart home devices, so we’re able to assess how well these products integrate with other smart devices you’ll want to use in your home.
TechHive’s favorite smart dimmers and switches
Best smart dimmer overall — Lutron Diva Smart Dimmer (and the Lutron Caséta ecosystem)
Pros
Part of the robust Lutron Caséta smart home ecosystem
Broadly compatible with other smart products and systems
Doesn’t depend on a neutral wire
Cons
You must have Lutron’s Caséta Smart Hub wired to your home network
Lutron’s uncertain stance on Matter
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Why we like the Lutron Diva Smart Dimmer (and its Caséta ecosystem)
Lutron built its own smart home ecosystem based on its proprietary Clear Connect technology. By definition, proprietary standards far less open than standards like Matter, Wi-Fi, Zigbee, or Z-Wave; however, the Caséta Smart Hub you’ll need to connect Caseéta products to your home network supports Amazon Alexa, Apple HomeKit, Google Assistant, IFTTT, Samsung SmartThings, and Sonos speakers, and more. And all that is in addition to Lutron’s own lighting products, smart shades and smart blinds, ceiling-fan controllers, motion sensors, and other products. With that degree of compatibility, it’s difficult to imagine a complex smart home routine that couldn’t be accomplished.
Who should buy the Lutron Diva Smart Dimmer (and its Caséta ecosystem)
Anyone looking to incorporate lighting controls into a robust smart home network should consider the Lutron Diva Smart Dimmer and a Caséta Smart Hub. Lights can switch on when someone rings a doorbell or automatically turn off when you leave home. If you have a Sonos speaker, you can automatically play music when you return home. While Lutron’s technology is not Matter compatible today, Lutron is a member of the Connectivity Standards Alliance that is responsible for developing Matter, so it’s possible that Caséta could be Matter compatible one day. Given the broad compatibility the Caséta ecosystem already enjoys, that ultimately might not make a difference. Lutron’s original Caséta dimmer switch is an equally good product and costs slightly less, but it looks a bit busier.
Read our full
Lutron Diva Smart Dimmer review
Best budget-priced smart dimmer — Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Dimmer Switch, Motion-Activated (model ES20M)
Pros
Endlessly tweakable motion-sensing options
Wiring design makes for easy installation
Attractive design aesthetic
Cons
Requires a neutral wire
Kasa app needs to be modernized
Motion sensing range is a bit weak
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Why we like the Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Dimmer Switch (model ES20M)
TP-Link’s Kasa Smart Wi-Fi dimmer switch is remarkably inexpensive, and its Wi-Fi support means that it doesn’t require a smart hub to work. Users have immense control over how its motion- and light-sensing features work, with full support for fade-in/out options, motion sensing, and ambient light detection.
Who should buy the Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Dimmer Switch (model ES20M)
The low price makes the Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Dimmer an attractive alternative, but buyers will need to have access to a neutral wire at the installation point. This dimmer will not work with Apple HomeKit or 3-way circuits, but if you don’t need either of those functions, the Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Dimmer is an absolute bargain. Don’t have a neutral wire in the box where you want to install a motion-activated dimmer? Consider the GE Cync Dimmer, below.
Read our full
Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Dimmer Switch, Motion-Activated (model ES20M) review
Best Wi-Fi smart switch/dimmer — GE Cync Dimmer + Motion Smart Switch
Pros
Motion sensing works great
Very easy to set up
Can control Cync smart bulbs even if they aren’t wired to the switch
Available in a version that doesn’t require a neutral wire
Cons
Ugly industrial design
Motion sensing settings aren’t always intuitive
Pricey for this category
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Why we like the GE Cync Dimmer + Motion Smart Switch
This isn’t the prettiest dimmer on the market, but GE Lighting’s Cync Dimmer + Motion Sensor Switch sure packs the features. An onboard motion sensor can turn the light switch on when the room is occupied, and an ambient light sensor will stop that from happening if there’s enough daylight that the extra light isn’t needed. The switch can also control GE Lighting’s Cync smart bulbs, even if they’re not physically wired to the dimmer.
Who should buy the GE Cync Dimmer + Motion Smart Switch
The GE Cync Dimmer + Motion Sensor Switch doesn’t require a smart home hub, and GE now offers users a choice of a cheaper version that does require a neutral wire at the installation location, and a 3-wire version that doesn’t depend on a neutral wire. The technology is still up-to-date, but the Cync Dimmer + Motion Sensor Switch has seen a substantial price drop since its introduction in 2020.
Read our full
GE Cync Dimmer + Motion Smart Switch review
Best Zigbee smart switch/dimmer — Jasco Enbrighten Zigbee In-Wall Smart Dimmer
Pros
SimpleWire technology effectively eases installation hassles
Slim profile might help some users with space management in the electrical box
Smooth installation and no operational trouble
Cons
Requires a neutral wire
Broadsheet user manual will cause your eyes to glaze over
Dependent on a third-party smart home hub with a Zigbee radio
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Why we like the Jasco Enbrighten Zigbee In-Wall Smart Dimmer
The Jasco Enbrighten Zigbee In-Wall Smart Dimmer is perfect for less-experienced homeowners who want to DIY their smart lighting. The slimline design isn’t tough to shove back into the box when you install it, and Jasco has given the Enbrighten enough onboard intelligence to distinguish the line wire from the load wire, so you don’t need to worry about mixing them up. You will, however, need a neutral wire at the installation location.
Who should buy the Jasco Enbrighten Zigbee In-Wall Smart Dimmer
You’ll need a smart home hub that supports the Zigbee protocol. Several models of the Amazon Echo and Echo Show are well-known examples, but there are dozens of options, including the Samsung SmartThings Station, the Aeotec Smart Home Hub, or the Hubitat Elevation. You should be aware, however, that Zigbee support does not automatically mean Matter support. This device is not Matter compatible.
Read our full
Jasco Enbrighten Zigbee In-Wall Smart Dimmer review
Most sophisticated smart switch/dimmer — Brilliant Smart Home Control
Pros
Touchscreen and built-in camera adds incredible flexibility
Alexa onboard; plus great third-party integrations, including Ring and Apple HomeKit
Impressive build quality
Cons
Devilishly complex to set up properly (at least in my house)
Very expensive: $399 for single switch panel, $449 for a 2-switch panel, $499 for a 3-switch panel
Why we like the Brilliant Smart Home Control
The touchscreen and the touch-sensitive sliders on the Brilliant Smart Home Control smart switch/dimmer gives it some impressive capabilities, including the capacity to stream video from Ring and Google Nest video doorbells and control Sonos multi-room audio systems. Don’t want to mess with the wiring inside your home’s walls? The company offers a model that you can hang on the wall and plug into a nearby electrical outlet.
Who should buy the Brilliant Smart Home Control
As you’d expect, all those sexy Brilliant Control features come at a price—both in terms of cost and installation complexity—but if you want the most sophisticated smart home controls on the market, this is it.
Read our full
Brilliant Smart Home Control review
Best multi-function smart switch/dimmer — Leviton Decora Smart Voice Dimmer with Amazon Alexa (model DWVAA)
Pros
Alexa with no footprint, exposed power cord, or wall wart
No smart home hub required
Lots of options for lighting control and integration with other smart home devices
Cons
Wi-Fi dependent, so range could be an issue
Operates on 2.4GHz networks only
Doesn’t support Alexa’s whisper mode
Tinny speaker, and it can’t be paired with a Bluetooth speaker
No HomeKit or Google Assistant support
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Why we like the Leviton Decora Smart Voice Wi-Fi Dimmer with Alexa
Just how many features can you cram in a single-gang light switch? Leviton squeezes a Wi-Fi radio, a dimmer switch, and an entire Amazon Alexa-compatible smart speaker into this device. Yes, Ecobee pulled off a similar trick much earlier, but with an on/off switch, not a dimmer. Leviton also has a deeper catalog of other Wi-Fi components—switches, dimmers, ceiling fan controllers, multi-button controllers, and more—to go with it.
Who should buy the Leviton Decora Smart Voice Wi-Fi Dimmer with Alexa
If your home revolves around Amazon’s Alexa voice assistant, installing this dimmer in your wall will eliminate the need to put an Echo smart speaker in the same room. Leviton has added Google Home support since we first reviewed this product; Apple Home users, however, should look elsewhere.
Read our full
Leviton Decora Smart Voice Dimmer with Amazon Alexa (model DWVAA) review
How to choose the right smart dimmers and switches for your home
You’ll need to make a raft of decisions before you choose which smart switches to install in your home, and your choices will be influenced by everything from the type of wiring in your walls to what flavor of smart home system you have now or plan to install later. Here’s what you need to know in roughly the order you’ll need to decide.
Neutral wire requirement: Many smart switches and dimmers require the presence of a neutral wire in the electrical box inside the wall, in addition to the line (power from the circuit-breaker panel), load (power to the light to be controlled), and ground (a low-resistance path for electricity to flow to the ground in the event of a malfunction) wires. Smart switches have radios that must be constantly powered, and the neutral wire is usually what supplies that juice.
While all homes have neutral wires, many older homes don’t have a neutral wire in every box. If you’re not sure if there’s a neutral wire at the location you want to install a smart switch, this how-to story will help you figure it out. If you don’t have a neutral wire, Lutron’s Caséta and Diva smart dimmers and the GE Cync Dimmer (3-wire version) are among the few smart switches that do not require one.
Most smart switches depend on the presence of a neutral wire to supply energy to their radios, but many homes built prior to the 1980s don’t have a neutral wire in every box. GE Cync and Lutron Caséta are among the few smart switches that don’t depend a neutral wire. GE Lighting
Single- or multi-pole: If the light you wish to control is connected to just one switch, then you’ll need to replace it with a single-pole smart switch. If more than one switch controls that load—switches on opposite sides of a room, for example—then you’ll need to replace it with a multi-pole (aka 3-way) smart switch. This typically means that you’ll also need to buy a companion switch or switches for the other end(s) of the circuit. There are a few exceptions to this rule, so check the documentation accompanying whichever smart switch you decide to buy before you install it.
Control protocol: You’ll undoubtedly want to control your smart lighting with your smartphone or tablet, and most people will also want to turn lights on and off with voice commands spoken to a smart speaker, such as an Amazon Echo or a Nest Hub. But to do that, the smart switch you buy must have some way of connecting to your home network (which explains why Bluetooth smart switches can’t talk to smart speakers).
Some smart switches connect directly to your Wi-Fi network, while others require a bridge to your router. If you’ve invested in a smart home system—Samsung SmartThings, Hubitat Elevation, Vivint Smart Home, or any other ecosystem—you’ll want to make sure that the smart switch you buy is compatible with it. These are the most common communication protocols you’ll encounter.
Bluetooth smart switches are controlled directly by an app on your smartphone or tablet. Bluetooth smart lighting is simple, because you don’t need a hub or a connection to your home network. That isolation also makes it secure, because you must be within about 30 feet of the switch to pair with it. On the other hand, authorized users also must be within 30 feet of a Bluetooth switch to control it, and you can’t control the switch when you’re away from home (although most Bluetooth switches can be controlled according to a pre-programmed schedule). The other major limitation of Bluetooth switches is that they can’t be controlled by smart speakers or smart home hubs, which generally rely on one of the other wireless protocols described here. As a result, Bluetooth-only switches have become relatively rare.
Lutron Clear Connect is a proprietary wireless protocol used by Lutron Caséta Wireless smart home devices, including switches, dimmers, ceiling fan controllers, occupancy sensors, motorized blinds and shades, and battery-powered remote controls. You can also control a limited number of third-party devices with Lutron’s app—ranging from thermostats to Wi-Fi speakers—and incorporate them into smart home “scenes.” Clear Connect operates independently of your Wi-Fi network, but you must hardwire a Lutron Smart Bridge to your router to use it. You can control Lutron Caséta devices via Lutron’s app, with voice commands spoken to smart speakers, and from mobile devices anywhere you have broadband access. Some smart home systems, including Samsung SmartThings, can also incorporate Lutron’s smart home products.
Matter is the most recent smart home standard. It aims to be an overarching standard incorporating several other smart home standards, including Thread, Wi-Fi, and Zigbee. Matter’s promise is that it will one day unite all the various smart home ecosystems: Amazon Alexa, Apple HomeKit, Google Home, and Samsung SmartThings among them. Matter could become more important over time, but we don’t consider the absence of Matter support or compatibility to be a reason to avoid any smart home product today.
Thread is a low-power networking technology that’s a core element of the Matter smart home standard. It’s similar to Z-Wave and Zigbee in that Thread devices can talk directly to each other; unlike those standards, Thread doesn’t depend on a central hub. Matter devices can use either Thread or Wi-Fi, but battery-powered devices are more likely to use Thread because of its low power requirements. To access Thread devices from the internet, you’ll need to have a Thread border router, such as the Aqara Hub M3, the Aeotec Smart Home Hub; several models of Amazon Echo smart speakers and Echo Show smart displays; an Apple TV 4K (2nd-gen and up), an Apple HomePod or HomePod mini; some later-model Eero routers; a Nest Wifi or Nest Wifi Pro; or a Samsung SmartThings Station. This is not a complete list.
Wi-Fi has gained a foothold in smart lighting thanks to the rise of mesh routers that blanket your home with network coverage. The attraction of Wi-Fi smart switches is that they generally don’t require a hub or a bridge to connect to your router (although Leviton does have some Wi-Fi products that communicate over a proprietary network with a plug-in bridge that connects them to Wi-Fi. While Wi-Fi is incorporated into the Matter smart home standard, that doesn’t mean every Wi-Fi device is automatically Matter compatible.
Z-Wave This is a wireless mesh network technology in which each node on the network is also a repeater that can forward commands to other Z-Wave devices nearby. It operates in the unlicensed 800- to 900MHz radio spectrum (specifically, 908.42MHz in North America). Its low power requirement means it can be incorporated into battery-operated devices that cannot be plugged directly into an electrical circuit, including door/window sensors, smart locks, water leak detectors, and motion sensors in addition to smart dimmers and switches. You’ll need a smart home hub, such as a Samsung SmartThings, to act as a bridge to your Wi-Fi network. There are fewer Z-Wave products available today, compared to the standard’s heyday, and some of the Z-Wave dimmers and switches we’ve reviewed from Jasco and Leviton are no longer in production, but some other brands are still available. Note that Z-Wave Long Range (LR) family of chips that was introduced in 2020 do not operate on a mesh network. They use a star network topology in which each Z-Wave LR node communicates directly with the Z-Wave hub that’s connected to your router for internet access.
Zigbee This wireless mesh network technology is very similar to Z-Wave, but it operates in the unlicensed 2.4GHz radio spectrum (same as single-band Wi-Fi). Like Z-Wave, Zigbee has a lower power requirement and can be incorporated into both battery and line-powered devices, ranging from sensors to smart switches. And as with Z-Wave, you’ll need a smart home hub or some other kind of bridge to connect Zigbee devices to your home network. This could be something as simple as an Amazon Echo Plus, which has an integrated Zigbee radio, or it could be on the order of a Samsung SmartThings hub, which has both Zigbee and Z-Wave radios onboard. Like Wi-Fi, Zigbee is part of the Matter smart home standard; also like Wi-Fi, not every Zigbee device is automatically Matter compatible.
Lutron’s Aurora Smart Dimmer prevents a conventional toggle switch from shutting off the power to any Philips Hue smart bulbs that are connected to the switch. It can also wirelessly control those bulbs, including dimming them by rotating the knob. Lutron
Switch mechanism: Since most people control smart switches and dimmers with voice commands, they soon discover that they rarely physically interact with the devices in their walls. But you’ll want to consider the type of mechanism the smart switch uses if for no other reason than to ensure its aesthetic matches the rest of your home. These are the most common types you’ll encounter.
Relatively few manufacturers make smart switches that look like this type of old-fashioned toggle switch.
Michael Brown/Foundry
Rocker (aka paddle) This type of switch has a wide plastic panel that rocks back and forth when pressed to turn the controlled load on and off (one side of the switch raises when the other is depressed). These modern-looking switches hug the wall and are very easy to operate. Since a command issued over the air will override whatever physical state the switch is otherwise in, smart rocker switches typically don’t physically flip, so there’s no confusion when you see a lit bulb when the switch is ostensibly in the “off” position. A smart dimmer switch might have a secondary control—a vertical slider or a horizontal rocker—for adjusting brightness
Toggle A toggle switch operates by moving a lever up and down (flipping the lever up turns the controlled light on, and flipping it down turns it off). These types of switches tend to look more old-fashioned than rocker switches, but you can find smart versions of them if you want something that at least resembles the other switches you have in your walls. As with smart rocker switches, they generally don’t completely change physical appearance when switched on or off.
Touch High-end smart switches and dimmers feature touch-sensitive surfaces. Typically made of glass, touch-sensitive smart switches and dimmers are usually backlit by one or more LEDs that can be multiple colors. The touch sensitivity can be as simple as touch to turn the switch on and touch again to turn it off, or it can be as complex as displaying a user interface that supports finger swipes for calling up different lighting scenes or control elements. Needless to say, these types of smart switches and dimmers cost considerably more than simple plastic devices.
Brilliant’s touchscreen panel lets you see and talk with a person at your door when a visitor activates your Ring Video Doorbell.
Christopher Null/Foundry
Wiring connections: Smart switches and dimmers tend to be larger than their dumb counterparts, so you should consider how the new switch will fit in your existing electrical box. This is particularly important if you’re installing multiple smart switches next to each other in a single box. Remember that there will typically be at least four wires to deal with—line, load, neutral, and ground—and that there will also be a traveler wire if you’re dealing with a multi-pole circuit. It can be challenging to stuff all those wires and the new switch back into the box. These are the most common types of electrical connections you’ll encounter in smart switches.
Backstabs These are holes in the back of the switch into which you’ll push (“stab”) the appropriate solid copper wires coming out of the wall.
Pigtails Some switches have short electrical wires emerging from the back of the switch that you’ll attach to the wires coming out of the wall, using wire nuts to secure them. This is generally the easiest technique, but if the switch is deep, it can be a challenge to pack the extra wires and the wire nuts tightly enough into the box so that the switch mounts flush against the wall. It can be particularly difficult if the box has other devices in it.
Terminals With this type of switch, you’ll wind the wires coming out of the wall around flat screws on the sides of the switch and then tighten the screws down. This technique presents less of a challenge when it comes to pushing the wires and the switch back into the box, but the wires can be stiff and you’ll need to be careful to ensure the stripped wire doesn’t come into contact with stripped wires connected to adjacent switches in the box or the box itself, if it’s metal.
Pigtails and wire nuts are one common way to connect a smart switch to your existing in-wall wiring.Christopher Null/Foundry
How we evaluate smart dimmers and switches
How easy are the dimmers and switches to install? Can a relatively inexperienced homeowner handle the wiring, or will they need to hire a professional electrician?
What smart home platforms does the device support? The more protocols an individual switch or dimmer can work with, the more flexible it will be as smart home technology evolves in the future.
Is there an app? If so, how polished is the interface and how easy is it to use the app to control the dimmers and switches. If they’re motion-activated, how reliably do they respond to movement in a room.
If the dimmer and switch have added features like cameras or speakers, we look at how those features perform when compared to standalone devices that perform those functions.
Other smart dimmers and switches we’ve reviewed
Eaton Wi-Fi smart universal dimmer: Eaton is a very big name in the electric market, but this device failed to impress.
GE Cync Smart Dimmer Light Switch: This is a decidedly odd-looking smart dimmer, but it’s a great choice if you don’t have a neutral wire in the box where you want to install it. It connects directly to your Wi-Fi network, so there’s no smart home hub requirement.
Leviton Decora Smart Zigbee dimmer (model DG6HD): This is a Zigbee dimmer, but not a Matter-compatible one (to be fair, it predates Matter by several years). It’s a solid product, but its size gave us installation trouble. It’s worth noting, however, that it appears to be out of production at Leviton.
Leviton Decora Smart Wi-Fi (model DW6HD-1BZ): This was the first generation of Leviton’s Decorea Smart Wi-Fi products; as such, it has been discontinued. We have not yet reviewed the second-generation product that replaced it.
Treatlife Smart Dimmer: This incredibly inexpensive connects to your 2.4GHz Wi-Fi network, but its performance is commensurate with its price.
Treatlife 3-way Smart Dimmer (model DS02): This Treatlife product is much better than the one reviewed above. Its primary claim to fame is that it can be installed on a 3-way circuit without needing matching (aka companion) switches on the other ends of the circuit.
Sinopé Smart Adaptive Phase Dimmer (model DM2550ZB): This Zigbee dimmer is very expensive, but the company’s smart adaptive phase dimming all but eliminates the risk that a connected load–LED lighting in particular–will flicker or turn off prematurely as it’s dimmed.
Wemo Smart Dimmer with Thread (model WDS070): Wemo’s dimmer supports Thread, so it must support Matter, right? Well, no it doesn’t; and while you’ll still find this product available at Amazon and a few other places, it seems Belkin has discontinued it. Read...Newslink ©2025 to PC World |  |
|  | | PC World - 29 Mar (PC World)Aston Martin and Curv Racing Simulators have unveiled the AMR-C01-R, an exclusive carbon fiber racing simulator rig that combines motorsport technology with advanced graphics and stylish design. Only 50 will be made and the price starts at—wait for it—about $75,000.
The new model builds on the first AMR-C01 that launched in 2020, but has been upgraded with a new seating design inspired by the Aston Martin Valkyrie hypercar. Improved ergonomics allow taller drivers to sit comfortably, while a repositioned button panel and improved grille provide better usability and cooling.
As for the gaming hardware, here’s what you’ll find inside:
49-inch Samsung Odyssey G95C curved display (with 240Hz refresh rate, 1ms response time, and HDR10+)
Nvidia GeForce RTX 5090 graphics card
Intel 14th-generation processor
32GB of DDR5 RAM
2TB of M.2 SSD storage
All of this is built into a carbon fiber monocoque with Aston Martin’s iconic front grille. The steering motor feels like a real racing car with its precision feedback and high torque response, and the steering wheel itself has 9 rotary dials, 12 push buttons, an LCD display, dual-clutch paddles, and carbon fiber gear shifter paddles.
This is as close as it gets to hopping in a Formula car and driving it around without actually hopping into one. Former F1 driver Darren Turner describes it as “the ultimate racing simulator for those who demand the very best.” I reckon so. Read...Newslink ©2025 to PC World |  |
|  | | PC World - 29 Mar (PC World)At a glanceExpert`s Rating
Pros
File, partition, and drive imaging to common VHD format
Full-fledged partition manager
Disaster recovery
Optional retro command-line and character-based recovery interface
Cons
Needs to properly vet destination space
Minor visual bugs and workflow peccadilloes
Our Verdict
R-Drive Image offers a ton of great backup features, including disaster recovery and newly expanded support for all the most popular online storage services.
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I’ve truly enjoyed reviewing the various iterations of R-Drive Image — it’s been my go-to imaging/backup utility for nearly two decades. It’s a great program, and has still never created a bad backup in my hands.
However, bugs, while rapidly fixed once reported, have reared their head in my last few looks. Including one that created an endless failure loop in 7.3. Come on now…
What are R-Drive Image 7.3’s features?
The big news for this dot upgrade is expanded support for cloud storage services — including the Amazon S3 and S3-compatible repositories, something I bemoaned the lack of in my review of version 7.2. Okay, bemoaned is a bit strong. Wished for?
R-Drive Image’s main page.
Also new in the cloud arena is support for Microsoft Azure and Google Cloud, though only in R-Drive’s pricier Technician and Corporate tiers. Most end-users will be more interested in Dropbox, OneDrive, and the cheaper S3 and S3-compatibles, which the consumer program supports flawlessly.
The salient R-Drive Image features include: file, folder, partition, and whole drive imaging in both proprietary and non-proprietary VHD/VHDX formats; copying and cloning discs; a full-featured partition editor; and a bootable recovery disk with a choice between the modern and old-school, character-based interfaces.
The R-Drive Image boot disk interface.
The character-based interface (shown below) on the recovery disk is still my favorite for freaking out my friends and IT customers. Its appearance is as dated as my own, but it too is a hoot. Most users will prefer the modern interface shown in the previous image.
You don’t have to use this retro-interface on the recovery disc. I do, but most users will use the one that mimics the Windows version.
There are also Tasks, R-TT speak for jobs. These feature very granular scheduling and even media rotation in the pricier versions. Scripts are the same thing as tasks, but for command-line use. Yes, you can use R-Drive the old-fashioned way.
Another feature I love in R-Drive Image 7.x is its replications. These are copies of the image saved to other destinations. In other words, you can define one data set to back up, and back it up to multiple locations using the same “script,” aka job.
The R-Drive Image task schedular.
If you’re looking for the ability to back up non-Windows computers, the recovery disc allows you to image FAT/exFAT, NTFS, ReFS / ReFS2+ (Resilient File System, Windows 2012/2016 Server), HFS/HFS+/APFS, XFS, Little and Big Endian variants of UFS1/UFS2 (FreeBSD/OpenBSD/NetBSD/Solaris), and Ext2/Ext3/Ext4 FS (Linux). Whew.
That said, Apple, a tough-to-love company, makes it nearly impossible to boot from unsigned media these days, so backing up your Mac using R-Drive Image no longer works. I mention this because I tried and was disappointed that the FAT32 USB boot stick didn’t even show up. One R-Drive Image complaint is that while the program supports mounted network drives, WebDAV, and FTP, there’s no way to add files from a network location that’s not mounted as a drive letter by Windows. You can type in a network URL in the file name field for the destination though, and R-TT was asking me how to ameliorate this lack as I wrote this article. Expect this addition soon.
My only other complaint is that the program will mildly warn you, but not stop you from trying to write an image to a destination that doesn’t have room for it. The latter became particularly apparent as a flaw during testing. More on that in the performance discussion below.
You can define one data set to back up, and back it up to multiple locations using the same ‘script,’ aka job.
How easy to use is R-Drive Image 7.3?
For basic operations, R-Drive Image is quite easy to use. It walks you wizard-style through selecting files/folders, drives, or partitions, then where you want to write the resulting image. Creating recovery discs is simple as well.
Where the program could use a bit of work is in the Tasks/Scripts area. The way they’re portrayed in the interface, it’s not immediately apparent that tasks are for the GUI and scripts are for command-line use. Yes, RTFM.
You can specify media rotation options for any task. But only in the pricier professional versions of the program.
I certainly appreciate that you can save ad-hoc jobs as command-line scripts, but it would be nice if you could save them as a task as well. Tasks, or recurring jobs, can only be created in the Tasks pane. This is also where you’ll find the retention options and scheduling.
I’d also like to see an “Execute” button in the task bar. As it stands, you must right-click over the task to run it. R-Drive Image doesn’t make heavy use of right-click context menus, so this wasn’t something I immediately thought of. Double-clicking starts editing. I would’ve reversed those choices.
How much is R-Drive image 7.3?
The end-user version of R-Drive Image, good for one computer is $45. The transferrable-seat Technician version is $299, the Corporate version I tested is $189, and there are multi-seat and transferrable-seat versions for $500 and $900, respectively. You can see the full list and the feature differences at this link.
How does R-Drive Image 7.3 perform?
You may notice that this section of the review isn’t titled “How fast is…?” That’s because reliability and bug-free operation are every bit as important as how quickly backups are created.
I’ve touted R-Drive Image as the most stable and reliable backup program I have ever used, and until version 7 — it was. It still is, when operations complete, but I discovered a couple of small visual glitches plus a rather large bug in testing 7.3 (7304) that I actually traced back to 7.0.
The company fixed the issues within two days, which is fantastically responsive, but they should’ve been caught by the company before release.
It’s not this error message that was disturbing, it was that clicking on cancel just brought it up again. Ending the program via Task Manager was required.
Basically, before the fix, if R-Drive Image ran out of room on the destination media during a file imaging task it went into a closed loop with the error dialog that you couldn’t cancel out of. I had to end the program using Task Manager. Drive and partition imaging jobs showed the error dialog, but you could cancel out of it.
Then there were the overlapping buttons shown below. Anyone using the program could spot them, which tells me that this version was likely rushed out the door.
These overlapping buttons indicate that not enough people at the company are kicking the tires of new releases before they go public.
Aside from the one fatal operational glitch and mis-drawn buttons, R-Drive Image performed as I’ve come to expect — admirably. Around a dozen operations to and from internal and external storage, NAS boxes, and online storage services (Dropbox, OneDrive, and Google Drive) went off without a hitch. The recovery media also booted just fine and backup/restore operations were glitch-free.
This is more what I’m used to with R-Drive Image.
In the final analysis, while the program had some issues with not enough space, all backups that succeeded retained their integrity and were mountable and restorable. That’s the most important aspect.
Should you buy R-Drive image?
Despite the glitches, which didn’t affect the ultimate sanctity of the backups, I still trust R-Drive Image’s backup engine. Additionally, with the new online support and multiple destinations per job, it’s one of the most complete backup solutions available at the price. I will continue to use and recommend it, but stop letting these faith-challenging bugs out the door, R-TT. Read...Newslink ©2025 to PC World |  |
|  | | RadioNZ - 28 Mar (RadioNZ) The biggest start-of-year expenses were stationery, followed by transport, uniforms and technology-related costs. Read...Newslink ©2025 to RadioNZ |  |
|  | | ITBrief - 28 Mar (ITBrief) As high-street retailers grapple with fierce online competition and changing consumer habits, experts urge them to embrace technology and adapt strategies to thrive. Read...Newslink ©2025 to ITBrief |  |
|  | | ITBrief - 28 Mar (ITBrief) TeamViewer has unveiled its advanced spatial computing solution at Hannover Messe 2025, enhancing training in manufacturing with AR technology. Read...Newslink ©2025 to ITBrief |  |
|  | | PC World - 28 Mar (PC World)Nearly five years after discontinuing its Harmony brand of universal remote controls, Logitech is chopping support for the older remotes in the line.
More than two dozen first-generation Harmony remotes are slated to lose support, including the Harmony 670, 720, 880 and 880 Pro, 1100i, and the Harmony for Xbox 360.
Such newer Harmony remotes as the Harmony One, Harmony Elite, and the Harmony Companion aren’t on the list. But the news that Logitech is dropping support for first-generation Harmony remotes begs the question of how much longer other Harmony devices will remain supported. We’ve reached out to Logitech for comment.
The “Harmony Remote Discontinuation Notice” pops up when you open the legacy Logitech Harmony Remote Software, which allows you to reprogram the remote’s buttons as well as configure it to work with different makes and models of TVs, A/V receivers, DVD and Blu-ray players, game consoles, and other home theater components.
“After careful consideration, and more than 10 years of dedicated support, we have made the difficult decision to discontinue support for our Harmony First Generation Remote devices,” the notice reads. “As technology continues to evolve, we recognize the challenges in maintaining our services to the standards we strive for.”
While the affected Harmony remotes will still work, users won’t be able to change the behavior of the buttons anymore, nor will they be able to add or remove devices or activities (that is, a sequence of actions that might turn on your TV and Blu-ray player while setting them to the correct inputs and outputs).
Newer Harmony remotes “will continue to be supported” via the MyHarmony website or the Harmony app, Logitech added.
Logitech, which acquired the Harmony brand back in 2004, announced in April 2021 that it was discontinuing the line of universal remotes.
At the time, Logitech said it would “support our Harmony community” with “access to our software and apps to set up and manage your devices,” for “as long as customers are using [them].”
Logitech added that it would “continue to update the [Harmony] platform and add devices to our Harmony database.”
Home theater aficionados prize their Harmony remotes for their ability to control multiple A/V devices with a single controller, perfect for clearing a jumble of remotes from their coffee tables.
But while the Harmony fan base is devoted, it’s also small—too small for Logitech, which stopped making new Harmony remotes in 2021.
Former Logitech CEO Bracken Darrel called Harmony a “small business” in a 2019 interview, noting that “over time, you’ll have fewer and fewer people who feel like they need that universal remote” given the increasingly powerful remotes that ship with newer smart TVs.
Here’s the complete list of Harmony remotes that are losing online support:
Harmony 510
Harmony 515
Harmony 520
Harmony 522
Harmony 525
Harmony 550
Harmony 555
Harmony 610
Harmony 620
Harmony 628
Harmony 655
Harmony 659
Harmony 670
Harmony 675
Harmony 676
Harmony 680
Harmony 688
Harmony 720
Harmony 745
Harmony 748
Harmony 768
Harmony 785
Harmony 880
Harmony 880 Pro
Harmony 882
Harmony 885
Harmony 890
Harmony 890 Pro
Harmony 892
Harmony 895
Harmony 897
Harmony 900
Harmony 1000
Harmony 1000i
Harmony 1100
Harmony 1100i
Harmony for Xbox 360 Read...Newslink ©2025 to PC World |  |
|  | | Stuff.co.nz - 28 Mar (Stuff.co.nz) A warning has been issued by New Plymouth district councillors Max Brough and Murray Chong about licence plate recognition software being used to fine drivers around the city. Read...Newslink ©2025 to Stuff.co.nz |  |
|  | | PC World - 28 Mar (PC World)Sifting through the multitude of gaming hardware stories and there’s only been a handful about PC VR written for the start of this year.
That’s a shame because new technologies will likely propel VR forward in 2025 — at least a little closer to that seamless high-resolution experience that all VR gamers want. I’m mainly referring to Nvidia’s RTX 50-series and AMDs Radeon RX 9000-series graphics cards and what they mean for VR gaming performance.
I’ll get to that in a minute, but first a quick snapshot of PC VR performance in 2024.
VR and the best graphics cards of 2024
In 2024 we saw some gamers adopt Nvidia’s RTX 40-series and AMD’s 7000-series graphics cards in PC VR gaming. Those that did largely saw an uptick in frame rates from what they had before.
YouTubers posted impressive fps in games like Cyberpunk 2077 and iRacing, for example. The RTX 40 series added third-generation ray tracing for a boost to shadows and lighting while AMD’s 7000-series cards also saw an improvement in ray tracing.
Despite 2024’s top-tier cards showing big performance differences over the previous year’s graphics cards they couldn’t quite hit the kind of frame rates we saw in flat screen gaming. Mid-range cards like the RTX 4070 reported playable experiences in triple-A PC VR games too, some averaging around the 70- to 78fps mark, but performance rarely averaged upwards of 100fps.
In a nutshell, VR remained a tough gig for even the best video cards in 2024, which isn’t really that surprising. VR does have heftier requirements than flat screen gaming, because of its stereo rendering and wide field of view, especially at higher resolutions, like 3K.
What to expect in 2025
It’s early days for performance results but there’s no doubt VR gaming will be nudged further along by Nvidia and AMD’s new offerings this year. I don’t see them bringing VR into the mainstream, but they will undoubtedly make for smoother, more seamless experiences. I for one am looking forward to dusting off my VR headset considering the extra power on offer.
Some of the first VR benchmark results for the RTX 5090 versus the RTX 4090, for instance, are very enticing. One using the Meta Quest 3 demonstrates a 236 percent performance jump in Metro Awakening, a 151 percent increase in Red Matter 2, and a 47 percent increase in Skyrim VR for the RTX 5090 over the RTX 4090, for example.
The small print here is that at its current $2,000 price tag and 1,000W PSU recommendation, the Nvidia RTX 5090 is placed in a price and power category that may make many gamers wince. Consequently, it’s possible a lot of buyers will choose one of the step-down RTX 50 cards when they upgrade — me included.
You can expect more modest performance from the Nvidia RTX 5080, RTX 5070 Ti, and RTX 5070 GPUs in PC VR, but it’s still likely to be quite good, and better value.
I especially like the sound of the RTX 5070 Ti; its performance is only slightly shy of the RTX 4090 and at $749 (instead of the RTX 4090’s $1,599) at launch, it’s a lot cheaper too, so getting rid of the jitters in some triple-A VR titles will at least be more affordable than last year.
Nvidia’s RTX 5070 Ti is well priced and powerful. It’s a good choice for VR PC enthusiasts. Adam Patrick Murray / Foundry
AMD’s top card is similarly placed for a respectable performance gain in PC VR games. To use the AMD RX 9070 XT as an example, you’re looking at approximately 42 percent better performance than the previous generation RX 7900, which should go a long way to making VR gameplay smoother and more enjoyable if you opt for one.
mentioned in this article
GeForce RTX 5070 Ti
Read our review
PC VR gamers will once again see more realistic rendering of lighting and shadows in VR titles, too, thanks to further advancements in these card’s ray tracing capabilities. The 4th-generation ray tracing cores in Nvidia’s RTX 50-series cards, for example, are expected to boost RT performance by between 15 to 30 percent.
Quicker load times and higher resolutions
VR players using the latest-generation RTX 50-series cards can expect quicker load times at higher resolutions than was previously possible. That’s thanks to the RTX 50 cards sporting GDDR7 VRAM which has 33 percent quicker bandwidth than GDDR6X VRAM in previous generation Nvidia GPUs.
It will load in and out of memory at speeds up to 32Gbps (gigabits per second), compared to 24Gbps for GDDR6X, which will be especially useful for 4K per-eye VR gaming which is very graphically demanding.
AMD’s Radeon RX 9000-series graphics cards feature16GB of GDDR6X VRAM. That’s still good — we can expect it to be quick, even if it’s not quite as fast as Nvidia’s latest cards.
Two other new features of the Nvidia RTX 50-series GPUs look exciting for players who want to future-proof their upgraded hardware for PC VR. One is DisplayPort 1.2a, which will support 4K per-eye headsets at 120Hz or higher.
The other is 4:2:2 pro-grade color encoding support for multi-view (MV-HEVC). When VR supports this kind of encoding, players will be able to experience games in more vibrant color than the 4:2:0 compression that’s currently used in VR.
Nvidia DLSS 4 and AMD Fidelity FX Super Resolution 4 in VR
You could say these two technologies have already had an impact in some VR games judging from gamer reactions in 2024. On the other hand, there are still only a handful of VR games that support these technologies and that’s not likely to change much in 2025. Some notable titles include games like Skyrim VR, Microsoft Flight Simulator, No Man’s Sky, and VR Kayak Mirage.
Nvidia’s DLSS 4 technology is only supported in a handful of PC VR games so far. Nvidia
It’s worth noting, though, that even the VR games that support them won’t utilize all the features in these technologies. DLSS 4’s Multi-Frame Generation, for example, is one feature that remains unsupported by VR PC games. In fact, it causes increased latency compared to VR frame extrapolation technologies.
What else does 2025 have in store for PC VR gaming?
Gamers are going to want one of the video cards I just mentioned to get the best performance out of a spate of new lightweight 3K and 4K per-eye VR headsets arriving this year. They include the 4K Pimax Dream Air and Shiftall’s MeganeX superlight 8K.
From a games perspective, 2025 should bring an interesting and varied lineup of releases, from throwaway casual titles to big name blockbusters.
Just a few that I’m personally looking forward to include the time travel / escape room adventure Wanderer the Fragments of Fate, the puzzle game Infinite Inside: The Lost Depths, and a demolition derby game with destructible environments called FlatOut VR. Here’s hoping they play as well as they sound.
Further reading: Why I’m still using my Vive Pro for VR, six years later Read...Newslink ©2025 to PC World |  |
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